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Exhaust Manifold

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Exhaust Manifold

Inveigled...Almost. Inveigled...Almost.
New User | Posts: 7 | Joined: 09/13
Posted: 09/23/13
03:08 PM

Where my header connects to my exhaust on my V8 91 Chevy Camaro the bolt has broken. How am I to remove it without removing the engine completely?  

Dave632 Dave632
Addict | Posts: 2225 | Joined: 07/08
Posted: 09/23/13
05:36 PM

A tool such as an EZ out would be your only hope. You will have to be able to get a drill in there to make a hole so that the removal tool can get a bite on the broken bolt.  

tuffnuff tuffnuff
Moderator | Posts: 7828 | Joined: 12/09
Posted: 09/23/13
06:09 PM

An angle air drill might just get into that tight spot.,. a stubby drill bit helps too.
Now it's easy out time.
Good luck.

When The Flag Drops.,.


The Bull ***t Stops.,.

P. Engineer, Engine Builder

pepsi1 pepsi1
Guru | Posts: 1718 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 09/25/13
04:43 PM

You didn't mention as to the side the broken bolt or stud is. Not that it will make much difference.
   Once you remove the broken stud/bolt you may get coolant coming out of the stud/bolt hole. I suggest draining the coolant just below the cylinder head before you get started. I did my share on police cruisers the big Caprices still didn't have enough room sometime, and most of the time I removed the head.
  The State Police or town garage where they were sent for repairs the guys drilled 4" holes all along the inner fender to access the broken studs/bolts. Because they usually had 2 or 3 broken studs/bolts. Some actually leaked so bad we had to replace the head. GM sent us the bare head only. They gave us no time to at least lap the valves in. I'm surprised they ran as well as they did?
   If the stud/bolt isn't broken off flush, try this. Get heat with a fine point
and do this a number of times. On occasion the rust or sealer that is holding it may just break lose.
   Of course if the stud/bolt broke off flush with the head you can still use the heat. Just take your time and make the hole in the stud/bolt big enough to get a good size easy out into. This way you won't risk breaking the easy-out.
   Once you have it out you may get coolant from the threads.
   The passenger side is easier to get a shorty angled drill in. Start with the smallest drill bit and work your way up, until you feel comfortable you won't break an easy out.
  Sometime using heat directed on the broken bolt/stud. Will help a great deal. Take your time.


waynep712222 waynep712222
Enthusiast | Posts: 251 | Joined: 03/13
Posted: 09/25/13
09:51 PM

is this where the header bolts to the head...

or where the header bolts to the front of the exhaust system...

pepsi 1 bob has done a LOT of these is seems...

i only averaged 3 or 4 a day when i ran a cylinder head department.. but i only had the head...  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Guru | Posts: 1718 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 09/26/13
03:34 PM

Thanks Wayne.

The worst part of this was the State Police or Town garage mechanics made more of a mess then it really had to be. Most of the Police cars Broke the Bolts on the Passengers side Head. That was the side where the heat riser was. Wayne I'm sure you know the Cruisers sit and idle most of the day, or they run them at 120 MPH.
  I found it much easier just to remove the head or heads, and this way its easier to work on also. I'm talking about the LT-1 in the Caprice police cruisers. Back when I was consulting for this Chevy dealer Most of the State vehicles had GMPP for 100,000 mile warranty.
  I've seen cruisers come in with 95,000 plus miles, with fresh oil and filter and the engine was blown up. I had to consult with GM Engineers and we usually didn't warranty engines that ended their lives at or near the end of the extended warranty.
  I saw a state police cruiser come in on a flat bed. The tech started it up and diagnosed a dead cylinder. So he pulled the valve cover and #2 cylinder had two bent push rods. There were metal shavings all over the cylinder head.
  Here's what the so called super tech did. He installed two new push rods, and a new spark plug in #2 hole. Small block Chevy engines are tough. It was back two days later with a window in it. Now the Super Tech was going to install a brand new LT-1. Something he should have done the first time waited for approval. Then install a new LT-1. Those engines were special order.
  When I wrote the report on it. The engine should have been replaced the first time when it came in with the bent push rods. No Super Tech thought he would get paid for two different jobs. He didn't he got fubar for the first time it came in.
  The owner wanted to know why his warranty was so high? Just a little FYI. If a Tech just throws parts at a car to fix a problem. The part goes back to the GM testing center, and is tested. If the part or parts test good. The dealer has to pay for the part and time. I've seen ASE Master techs that can't fix anything. But because they test book smart they get their credits. Some system HAH.... Grin  Cool


Inveigled...Almost. Inveigled...Almost.
New User | Posts: 7 | Joined: 09/13
Posted: 10/08/13
01:31 PM

Thanks for the help.