Chevy High Performance
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I know this is a chevy forum but........

Chevy High Performance
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I know this is a chevy forum but........

swaluda swaluda
User | Posts: 71 | Joined: 11/12
Posted: 04/09/13
09:41 PM

tryin to find a rear for my Chevy powered Plymouth. Got a 2000 ford explorer D35 rear axle assembly with disc brakes i can pick up for 100 bucks. Its 54 and a half in back plate to back plate. My Plymouth book says the rear assembly thats in it now is 60. I beleive thats measured from flange to flange though. Anybody think the explorer will fit without any major problems?  Would that be a good choice for a 400 plus tork engine. 383 posi gears, and what about highway use.  Stan  

redneckjoe69 redneckjoe69
Addict | Posts: 2337 | Joined: 03/10
Posted: 04/10/13
05:51 AM

ive got a buddy with a 2001 expedition.  its all stock except for some aftermarket wheels.    i just put a used rear in it a few months ago.   he said every few years they break.   and yes, hes been using synthetic lube as required.   thats my only experience with those rears, and i dont even know if the explorer and expedition are the same?  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Guru | Posts: 1718 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 04/10/13
07:27 AM

Your correct RedneckJoe: Those are weak rears.

"I would NOT USE any Synthetic lube in any Hypoid Rear". Especially if you are using your car for racing. The shock loads, when you are staged and the engine is at 6,000 to 8,000RPM, and you side step the clutch, and/or have the trans brake set with a 6,500 or higher stall convertor.. "Think about what happens to the ring and pinion". In short it spreads the matting surface (or clearance when the back-lash was set) of the gears apart....Then the ring and pinion will seperate and then disaster....
  There is just too much SHOCK LOADS on the teeth of the ring and pinion, plus the fact the synthetic lube just doesn't hold up as the temperature increases, with the load.

  PLEASE NOTE THIS: Currie, Strange, Ect, Specify Not Using any Synthetic Gear lube in their rears. Or Gear Sets...You can read their literature.
  I have been building rears, and transmissions for many years. If it's a posi rear I soak the clutches in 85-110wt SAE gear lube for a couple hours or so. Then assemble it. (NOTE) Don't stack the clutches when you soak them spread them apart, so the gear lube gets into the entire clutch area.

  Some transfer cases and manual gear boxes require synthetic oils. The reason because the tolerances are much closer. If you live in a cold climate you probably won't get the trans to shift in the winter.

  Back in the day we sometime had to get the engine up to temperature, before we could shift them, or double clutch them to get going..  
  I hope this answers some questions for you younger gear heads....If you have any questions ask...


swaluda swaluda
User | Posts: 71 | Joined: 11/12
Posted: 04/10/13
08:04 AM

Yeah, i let the deal go. After reasearching further i find they are problematic... Glad i got you guys watching my back.. Thanks  Stan  

Dave632 Dave632
Addict | Posts: 2218 | Joined: 07/08
Posted: 04/10/13
05:29 PM

The only stock rear I ever had go in a stock motored car was, (I hate to admit it),
in a Toyota. Yes the great rice car hater actually bought one in 1980. It had about 4000 miles on it and while it was good on gas for its day it was a real piece of junk. By the time it had 65000 on it, when I got rid of the junk, the rear had gone, the fan shaft broke and fell into the radiator, it developed a goofy engine problem that I could not fix myself and I had to bring it to someone else to fix and many of the plastic interior parts had cracked or broken.
How in the world this car became so popular is beyond me. I never went near another one of those things except at the track when I could line up with one of them and leave them in the dust.