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400 sb

  
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400 sb

 
Pontiacman350 Pontiacman350
New User | Posts: 18 | Joined: 07/13
Posted: 08/19/13
05:18 PM

started pulling the 400 apart, i was gonna start buying some parts like bearings, gaskets, rings and other things that should be changed. my question is what should i get for a cam, intake and carb.

its just a street motor not sure what i should have for the rpm range. and not sure what i should have for carb size. dad said 3000 and up.

I'm not sure on heads, if i get a set redone will it cost as much as a new set?

my fathers the one helping me and when he did all his motors back 20 or so years ago they just built them with what they had so thanks for any comments  

76Skylark 76Skylark
Guru | Posts: 853 | Joined: 12/11
Posted: 08/19/13
05:48 PM

Listen to your Dad,  But a street 400 will want to start making power at 2200rpm(or less) because it will be used up at 6000, so 22-5700 camshaft is about right, you also want a duel plane intake and really a carb from 650-750cfm will fill the bill and I still Like Q-jets for this type Engine. some Basic headers try for quality without breaking the bank. Basic Fel-pro Gaskets,  Clevite Bearings and simple Iron rings. If the Pistons come out Past the Ridge in the top of the Bore WITHOUT pounding them out you may get by with Re-Ringing them but really this is one place that can cost some cash.  and talk to a head rebuilder he may have something better than 882's sitting on a shelf that they want to move.  

76Skylark 76Skylark
Guru | Posts: 853 | Joined: 12/11
Posted: 08/19/13
05:50 PM

Listen to your Dad,  But a street 400 will want to start making power at 2200rpm(or less) because it will be used up at 6000, so 22-5700 camshaft is about right, you also want a duel plane intake and really a carb from 650-750cfm will fill the bill and I still Like Q-jets for this type Engine. some Basic headers try for quality without breaking the bank. Basic Fel-pro Gaskets,  Clevite Bearings and simple Iron rings. If the Pistons come out Past the Ridge in the top of the Bore WITHOUT pounding them out you may get by with Re-Ringing them but really this is one place that can cost some cash.  and talk to a head rebuilder he may have something better than 882's sitting on a shelf that they want to move.  

68scott385 68scott385
Guru | Posts: 1990 | Joined: 10/09
Posted: 08/19/13
08:30 PM

I buy bearings from the machine shop that performed the work on the block and not a minute before unless you have disassembled and measured everything, rod & crank journals on the crank, bores in multiple places & different directions.

You can absolutely buy a good set of American made name-brand aftermarket aluminum heads for about 25%-30% more than what having a set of factory iron heads reworked. I know because I spent my money the wrong way and still have the receipt as a reminder. It was '97ish and I spent $600 having a set of factory head reworked and could have had another set of Eddys for $950. That doesn't mean you won't find a screaming deal by talking to your machinist to see if he has something that a customer hasn't paid for or picked up.  
68scott385 68scott385 68scott385

Pontiacman350 Pontiacman350
New User | Posts: 18 | Joined: 07/13
Posted: 08/20/13
03:46 PM

since im tearing it apart should i bring it to the machine shop and get it cleaned, i was planning on using the pistons over if theres no damage  

76Skylark 76Skylark
Guru | Posts: 853 | Joined: 12/11
Posted: 08/20/13
06:59 PM

they can be cleaned by hand but really 68Scott is right. take it all apart your self but let them install cam bearings. and after buying Rifle bore brushes /bottle brushes, cleaner ect. it is best to let the shop that does the machine work clean it also as you will never get it as clean. also they will likely give a better price on bearings and Gaskets than a parts house. Again if the cyl. bore is not worn....(ridge around top) the stock pistons can work. there is a tool called a ridge reamer that is common but you can chunk out the bore so just let the shop do all the Work so you can Enjoy the re-build and not Struggle with your first build  

76Skylark 76Skylark
Guru | Posts: 853 | Joined: 12/11
Posted: 08/20/13
07:06 PM

P.S.     Online; carcraft.com  May 2010 issue  Build this engine for $652.00 dollars. If all is O K  it can be done  

68scott385 68scott385
Guru | Posts: 1990 | Joined: 10/09
Posted: 08/20/13
07:27 PM

Icon Quote76Skylark:
P.S.     Online; carcraft.com  May 2010 issue  Build this engine for $652.00 dollars. If all is O K  it can be done

+1

I put a 350 together for about $500 back in Y2K. The history of the engine was known, everything was disassembled and measured before any bearings or gaskets were purchased. I even had the block and intake cleaned at a machine shop. I lapped the valves in the heads of known history and reused a cam.

Point is that cheap can be accomplished if you have good parts on hand. The more machine work you need the higher the price. The more parts you have to buy the higher the price. In my scenario I only needed bearings, rings, and a few gaskets, not an entire overhaul gasket set.  
68scott385 68scott385 68scott385

Pontiacman350 Pontiacman350
New User | Posts: 18 | Joined: 07/13
Posted: 08/21/13
03:30 PM

i wasent planning on bringing it to a machine shop but since I'm going to should i leave the main parts and let them do it so they can see what i need, (crank, connecting rods, cam) or strip it down and bring it in?  

68scott385 68scott385
Guru | Posts: 1990 | Joined: 10/09
Posted: 08/21/13
05:32 PM

I disassemble it all but for transportation purposes have the crank in the block with the bolts hand tight.

The proper storage of a crank is to sit it upright on its rear. I NEVER lay one on its side.

Being that you just bought this motor it would be a good idea, IMO, to have the rods, crank, and block checked and magnafluxed. If the parts are not up to par NOW is the time to find out, not later after the motor is back together, in the vehicle with 300 miles on it.  
68scott385 68scott385 68scott385

redneckjoe69 redneckjoe69
Addict | Posts: 2337 | Joined: 03/10
Posted: 08/22/13
05:33 AM

i'd take it to the machine shop to have it checked out.   after they're done you'll know what you need.     whats the casting number on the heads?   or are you going with aftermarket heads?    i'd at least consider some cast flat-top pistons.  they're fairly cheap, under $100.oo.    you'll make much better power.    take your time and build a nice shortblock.  

Pontiacman350 Pontiacman350
New User | Posts: 18 | Joined: 07/13
Posted: 08/26/13
04:28 PM

Just found out there's only 80 thousand kilometres on it guy I got it from had it since 86. Got it down to block, crank, cam and positions this weekend, head gasket was gone but the cylinders look good to me anyways no groves. Mixed reviews from everyone I know that knows anything about a chevy sb, meaning some say bore 030. Over some say never bore a 400 and some say I'm wasting my time with a 400. The head casting number looked like 8888802 but I can't find any like that so I must have read wrong I know the last 3 are 802  

Pontiacman350 Pontiacman350
New User | Posts: 18 | Joined: 07/13
Posted: 08/26/13
05:13 PM

Also a good engine builder told me a edlebrock intake and carb would be good for me because they bolt on and there ready to go but my dads want the four barrel left on he says its better because its what hes comforpatle with and he's old school which is nothing wrong with that just wondering what you guys thought  

68scott385 68scott385
Guru | Posts: 1990 | Joined: 10/09
Posted: 08/28/13
06:10 PM

What carb (brand) does your dad want you to use? QuadraJet? That'll be an uphill battle to tune unless he's REAL familiar with them. Don't be afraid of the unknown. The Eddy AFB carbs are the easiest carb on the market to work with. NO carb is tuned right out of the box, you WILL have to make adjustments to get it to its optimum performance.

Find a machinist YOU trust. Listen to what he says to do. IMO find a guy that has experience within the race community.  
68scott385 68scott385 68scott385

76Skylark 76Skylark
Guru | Posts: 853 | Joined: 12/11
Posted: 08/28/13
08:09 PM

the first number on the Head is most likely a 3 and I am pretty sure the last 3 digits are 882, not a performance head but for your Purpose good enough. this isn't a race engine so a 400 will be just fine in your Large Car, funny though about what folks like in carbs Scott likes an Eddy and I prefer the Q-jet and that IS what it came with,  P.S. the Two bolt Main 400 is considered a Better block than a 4-bolt,did the Pistons come out easy. you see the ridge we speak of? Let the Machine shop tell you what the wear is in the cyl. Watch them measure it and you will understand what we are talking about. .005 thou. of a ridge at the top becomes .010 total so .010 becomes .020 and that means you should bore the block. as far as the Intake goes do you mean leave the Stock one(again O.K. for now)  

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