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"ENGINE BUILDING"

  
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"ENGINE BUILDING"

 
pepsi1 pepsi1
Guru | Posts: 1718 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/25/13
01:40 PM

I was watching some old Drag Racing. Up on the screen was a guy (NOT mentioning any names). Topic was Building your small block Chevy. It showed the tear-down, of a Vortec 350. It had 190,000 miles when it spun a bearing.

The reason I want to give my 2 Cents on an engine upgrade especially. These are Very Bad Habits to get into. I don't like seeing guys just throwing pieces in a short block and that's it. Relying on what the machine shop said the clearances where what you wanted. Can you be sure this was even your engine assembly?

I am going to list what I did not like. If I seem too hard that's too bad. These are very bad practices to get into. This guy should never be making a DVD and then selling it, and telling our JR. and our upcoming Gear Heads this is the way it should be done. Guys and Girls you build engines like this guy, and they may run, but are they running to their potential.

1.The place was filty at best.

2.The (builder) could have used a shower.
2.a. I removed engine builder. He is an assembler. Not an engine builder. An assembler puts parts together as a whole. ie. Making a model airplane. The parts are there all we do is assemble them.
2.b. An engine builder takes pride in his work and measures and remeasures the parts needed to make that assembly, before it goes together for final assembly.

3.Never washed any of the parts. ie From the machine shop, or out of the box. You must wash all parts, insolvent or Hot soapy water.

4.His techniques were crude (at best)

5.Never measured clearances or even checked the work of the machine shop.

6.The Engine or Engine Kit used was never washed,
  Never checked for clearances the engine was slammed together.

7.There was never a reference to any measuring devices other then plasti gauge

               "THIS WAS HIS ASSEMBLY TECHNIQUE"
Now nothing was washed....
1.The main bearings were taken from the box, and put in the block. They were never looked at washed in solvent, sized checked, checked for burrs etc., etc., etc....he used plasti-gauge for the main and rod clearance

2.He did lube the crank with some stuff that looked like bearing grease. Wipes it with his dirty fingers. "PLEASE NOTE" The engine was Line Bored because it spun a bearing.

3.He drops the crank in and checks the clearance with "Plasti-Gauge". It must have been a secret because they never showed the Plasti Gauge clearances.

4.Crank gets dropped in. Never washed. He made reference that the crank was cross drilled.

5.He assembles the pistons. They are floating pins. The spiral locks were stretched, then installed with a pointed screw driver he never checked if the pins were floating after he was done
5.a. There is no need to stretch a spiral lock. If done correctly it can be inserted in the lock groove, in a circular rotation

6.Popped the piston rings on the pistons. Never once checked the clearance. He did check the alignment of the ring gaps.

7.Actually hammered the piston assembly in with a dead blow hammer. (I use the hammer handle). The Dead blow creates so much of a hit,it could possibly drive a broken ring in without you feeling it. He "DID NOT LUBE ANY OF THE PISTONS" OR WIPED THE CYLINDER WALL WITH A PAPER TOWEL WITH OIL ON IT. He did spray something in the cylinder, but for the most part the piston and cylinder walls were "DRY" even if the engine is primed to start off.The cylinder walls are dry

8.A rod bearing did fall out of the rod and hit the floor. He picked it up wiped it on his shirt and ran his finger around the bearing. Never looked at it, just popped it in the rod (THESE PISTONS HAD CAP SCREWS) there was no reason to install the bearing shell in until the piston assembly was was nearer the crank. He did eventually get the piston to the crank, only lubed the cap end, as I said the lube looked like wheel bearing grease. NOTE: HE USED NOTHING TO TO PROTECT THE ROD FROM HITTING THE CRANK. It is a critical time in the engines assembly as to will it live or will it not live. Its the engines bearings.

9.He did use a torque wrench. He torqued the mains and rods. IN ONE STRAIGHT PULL. NOT IN SEQUENCE 15, 25, 40, for the rods. 20,40,60, on the mains. He should have used a stretch gauge to measure the actual rod bolt stretch. He called the bolt torque as 40ft.lbs. Those rod bolts should have been broken down, retorqued and them torqued when the engine was in final assembly."PLEASE NOTE" as he checked the main bearing clearance, he did lube the main bolts. You can actually hear the bolt squeeking as he was hand turning them in.

10.He did spin the oil pump, by hand and said it was okay.  Tongue   Mad

Follow to next post.... Grin  

Bob  

68scott385 68scott385
Guru | Posts: 1990 | Joined: 10/09
Posted: 01/25/13
03:06 PM

WOW, I wanna see the vid of it blowing up!  
68scott385 68scott385 68scott385

pepsi1 pepsi1
Guru | Posts: 1718 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/25/13
03:30 PM

Scott:
I couldn't believe how dirty the shop was, and then the engine assembler. He was not a builder. I'm going to have to repost all the typing I did, and it died. It said it was a duplicate. Anyway I have to do some errands, and I'll get back to Part #2 sometime today...lol...

I just finished with the second half of the post, I hit reply and everything dissappered....I don't know where it went..

Be Patient Please....Gotta go!

Bob  

Pontiacman2 Pontiacman2
Moderator | Posts: 8956 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 01/25/13
03:45 PM

Pepsi send me a pm with the name of this assembler please.  
Pontiacman2
Pontiacman2

Professional Hi-performance engine builder

tuffnuff tuffnuff
Moderator | Posts: 7827 | Joined: 12/09
Posted: 01/25/13
04:27 PM

+1
I'm curious too.

Smile  
When The Flag Drops.,.

tuffnuff

The Bull ***t Stops.,.
tuffnuff

P. Engineer, Engine Builder

pepsi1 pepsi1
Guru | Posts: 1718 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/26/13
12:16 AM

I apologize for the suspense guys. But the problem was 2 fold.
1.I'm still having a problem signing on.
2. I think I made that thread too long. When I posted it,it said it was a duplicate and dumped it on me.
3.I will shorten the post.

It was similar to a Post Tuff let me put on when I first Joined about picking a machine shop.

Bob  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Guru | Posts: 1718 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/26/13
03:22 AM

I maybe a little to critical. But when you see what he does and then the sound of the engine at the end, maybe I'm not.

1.I still use my old stand by of STP/50wt racing oil. We use NAPA engine assembly lube on all fasteners, ecept ARP they supply their own.

2.I never use Plasti-Gauge. The crank could have a low or high spot in it. If you pick up that spot you will use that as a reference.
PLEASE NOT. I'M QUOTING HIM: He said if he needed a little tighter clearance he could get that by pulling the Main or rod bolt torque a tighter....

3.I would never use White Lube on and engine assembly. I had a jeep 6 cylinder come in the shop on a Sat. afternoon. The engine was built 8 months before being used. They installed the engine and in the matter of a few minutes started making noise. I was getting ready to go to the track for my Sat night thrills. The guy talked me into taking the engine apart. I removed the head. We had a tough time turning the crank. The white grease was used and it galled all the piston skirts and never let oil through the oil pump. They put white grease in the pump??? For what reason I don't know.

4.You need to lube your fasteners with the correct lube. ARP specifies what they want used.
If using a shoulder blot put lube under the shoulder. He did a quick check of the Main Bearing Clearance (On Number 1 journal only). You can hear the threads suqeeking as he tightened them by hand...

5.Some guys really hit the nose of the crank when setting the "Thrust Bearing" then checking it for clearance. There is NO NEED to hit the nose of the crank that hard. I actually leave the Rear Main or Thrust Bearing loose. Then use a pair of screw drivers. One on each side of the crank rear flange then measure the clearance with my  gauge     and if its .006 to .010 its set. If the clearance is too tight the bearing can be lightky sanded with 600 wet/dry sand paper. I go in a figure 8 motion take a small amount from both sides. Then reinstall the rear thrust bearing. The recheck it for clearance.  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Guru | Posts: 1718 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/26/13
03:33 AM

I even shortened the post and when I hit quick reply it said it was a dulicate post. I don't know how.

Bob  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Guru | Posts: 1718 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/26/13
03:49 AM

Icon QuotePontiacman2:
Pepsi send me a pm with the name of this assembler please.

Bill:

I sent you that info. Grab a beer and don't laugh too hard...

Bob  

tuffnuff tuffnuff
Moderator | Posts: 7827 | Joined: 12/09
Posted: 01/26/13
09:14 AM

Bob, I wanted that info too.,. send me a PM

Smile  
When The Flag Drops.,.

tuffnuff

The Bull ***t Stops.,.
tuffnuff

P. Engineer, Engine Builder