Looking for some thumbs ups(or downs) on my selected cam..

Hi building a 350 bored .040 over with roller cam and #062 milled to 59cc vortec heads.
Rebuilt short block with rebuilder 4valve relief dish pistons. Not sure exactly how far down in the hole they are but they are 423NP.

The engine is for a 1982 chevy silverado c10. Im wanting an all around performer and I drive it HARD everyday. I want to shift it 52-5500. I do some towing. The trans is a MVB th400. I do have the stock silverado gears right now.
Im not sure what intake but probably a edelbrock 650ish carb. havent bought intake stuff yet. No computer stuff for sure. vacuum brakes.
33x12 50 R15 rear tires.

Okay I am leaning towards this howards cam..
181145-10

Basic Operating RPM Range:1,500-5,600

Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:219

Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:225

Duration at 050 inch Lift:219 int./225 exh.

Advertised Intake Duration:272

Advertised Exhaust Duration:278

Advertised Duration:272 int./278 exh.

Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.510 in.

Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.525 in.

Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.510 int./0.525 exh.

Lobe Separation (degrees):110


thanks!!!!!!!  

Judging by what you have, with the cam specs. The heads will need to be machined so the cam at max lift the retainers will clear the Valve seals, and the Valve guides. Also you made NO MENTION of your valve springs. You may need to machine the valve pockets for a bigger OD of Valve spring.
 Towing: your cam should have a duration .204/.214 lift of .440/.450
The Cam is right on the edge of you needing at least a 2500 Stall convertor.

  You didn't mention your rear gear ratio. Thats a tall tire. When we find the specs for your Cam can we determine what gear you will need, and is it a posi rear?

  Fill in those questions. It really looks like your over camming the engine if you will tow with it.

Bob  

I have NO IDEA why it posted 3 times. If any of you Moderator's can get rid of 2 of them that would be great! Thanks Bob  

The vortecs are prepped and springed for .600 lift cam.
I need to change the springs to match whatever cam I buy.

I will check what gears are in it but they are factory im sure. I mainly do alot of hauling stuff in the back but sometimes a small trailer. One wheel peel right now.
I was also looking into something similar to the comp 4x4 cams but not a comp brand.
I do not do any extreme towing. Mainly hauling stuff in the back and pulling my buddies broken fords home.  

pepsi1:
I have NO IDEA why it posted 3 times. If any of you Moderator's can get rid of 2 of them that would be great! Thanks Bob

Looks like Pman got here before me.,. It's all good now Bob.

 
When The Flag Drops,,,



The Bull Chit Stops,,,


P. Engineer, Engine Builder

Thanks Pman and Tuff. I was really surprised when I looked back to reread it and there was 3 Post's. Well thanks for fixing it! I had to sign my password to get in. I don't know if that had anything to do with it..

Bob  

look under the Valve springs for shims you may be able to take a bit of spring pressure away with buying new springs,but that is still a bit much lift for a DD/auto matic.a 33" tall tire will pull a 3.23-3.42 gear real nice,More if you off road it but no less than 3.23 you won't like the acceleration  

Thats great they have been modified. The Tall tire takes away from your final gear ratio.
  Yeah you will have to do that. Found a set of Valve springs for another guy that was running a Hydraulic Roller. The springs will fit the standard spring pocket. So thats good. Hydraulic Rollers are a Pain to find springs when your looking at HR in that .525 lift.
  Crane suggests that any Hydraulic Roller Cam requires Seat Pressure between 120-145lbs.
  Crane also said you need higher opening pressures @ 260lbs. for any application of 4,000RPM and above.

Bob  

Try to figure how much time the truck will spend towing or as a daily driver.
  The less duration @.050 and max lift will really determine your torque output, and thats what you want for towing. Of course that hurts your horse power. Look at other Cam Manufacturers, and see what they have.

Bob  

pepsi1:
Thanks Pman and Tuff. I was really surprised when I looked back to reread it and there was 3 Post's. Well thanks for fixing it! I had to sign my password to get in. I don't know if that had anything to do with it..

Bob

Your welcome Bob.  



Professional Hi-performance engine builder

Thanks for the imput so far you guys rock. Yknow the thing is, I paid extra money for the modified vortecs thinking I would need a cam in the .500 range. Now it looks like I could have gotten away with stock vortecs.  

The cam lists a 1500-5600 rpm range which I thought would work well with a       1800-2000rpm converter and my manual VB th400. The only thing I have seen on the net about the cam is that it makes impressive torque numbers throughout its range.
I would say 80 / 20   20% towing fords home 80% leaving them in the dust with small load in the bed.
Guess I could follow the rule and go one step lower than I think I need. I figured .510/ .525 was close enough to the hotcam with 1.6 rockers it would be streetable enough..  

did you mean without buying new springs?  

Okay your valve springs are good to .600 lift. If you stay with a Hydraulic Roller cam. So you can forget that for now.
You would be surprised just by adding a set of lower gears, and not changing a thing what it will do to the performance of an engine.
  Heres the problem. When doing a project such as yours. You need to get all your information compiled, and then go from there. Bigger is not always better, in some cases,ie. Camshafts, and Carbs. You need to look at the whole package.
  Younger gear heads tend to over cam, and over carb their engines
  If your going to run your 1982 Silverado it's a heavy truck. So to get it going you need a torque cam. (Torque Moves the Car, and Horse power keeps it moving). Read the story I wrote.
  Go to perk1964Impala there is a story of why big cams don't work. In some type of applications.

Bob  

Okay I thought the springs were good FOR A .600 lift cam. Not UP TO a .600 lift cam. Nice to save that money..
     
Spring Specs 135 lbs. @ 1.750,   325 lbs @ 1.200       Springs are 1.250 diameter

Im sure the truck would still be an entire new animal for low end torque with this cam, as im upgrading to a 350 from a 231 buick 3.8 V6.

I honestly didnt look at this cam and think it was big. I will start looking into smaller cams but im not trying to build a tow motor. Alot of cars are just as heavy as my single cab c10. All im concerned with is the strongest it can be from      1500-5500,  

Perhaps this slightly smaller cam would be better suited? What about the same only with 108 lobe seperation?
I would like to have a real tight 3500 rpm power band starting around 15-1600
Cam Style:Hydraulic roller tappet

Basic Operating RPM Range:1,300-5,500

Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:217

Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:225

Duration at 050 inch Lift:217 int./225 exh.

Advertised Intake Duration:270

Advertised Exhaust Duration:278

Advertised Duration:270 int./278 exh.

Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.495 in.

Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.500 in.

Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.495 int./0.500 exh.

Lobe Separation (degrees):110

Camshaft Gear Attachment:3-bolt

Computer-Controlled Compatible:No

Valve Springs Required:Yes

Camshaft Manufacturers Description:Good idle, street performance, strong lower to midrange. Stock converter OK.