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Shorty Header Install Trouble
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Posted: 01/09/13 09:15 AM
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So I bought a set of pacesetter headers on Ebay for my 98 k1500. They had never been installed, had all hardware, etc. When I went to install them the passenger side didn't quite line up. I got it connected by getting all the bolds started and then tightening them up. It was bugging me because I could hear it leaking and I had a P0430 code so I was going to replace the cat and insert a flex pipe after the downpipe and before the cat. There is only about 24" between the far end of the cat and where you can splice into the downpipe.
Well, There had been too many cuts and welds for me to get a clean spot and the flex and the cat equaled more then the 24" that the space allowed. I had considered what I spent for the cat, flex pipe, fittings, and clamps and decided a new catalytic converter setup would be the better solution.
I bought a magna flow direct fit catalytic converter setup and I have the same sort of fitment issue as with the stock setup. the downpipe about 1/8" too far back on the passenger side and I had to do the same sort of trick where I screw them all on by hand and then tighten. When installing the new setup I saw that the flange had been damaged during the first install.
My main concern is that I dented the ball flange socket on the header the first time I installed them. Can I fix them? I don't know if they will seal yet, with the flange being off and the ball socket dented.
Has anyone encountered an issue with pacesetter shorty headers?
What's the best way to get the exhaust to line up properly?
Thanks, Joe
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pepsi1
Guru
| Posts: 1661
| Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/09/13 11:17 AM
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Joe
Are they the shorty/block hugger headers? They are a pain in the Butt.
I know you've been through a lot with your truck, but I need to ask a question? If they didn't fit couldn't they be reutrned? Believe me I've been there and have made more work for myself and spent more money then I had too. What that said.
The ball flange maybe if you heat it Cherry Red then try tapping it back into shape with a small ball peen hammer. Keep heat on it as your tapping on it the reason if you let it cool as yout tapping on it, it will crack.
The mounting flange for the header: Put a straight edge across the flange. Is it twisted or just not straight. I really don't know how you would be able to get it flat again other have it milled. I don't think a large sander will do it, it will create more problems then fix them.
Bob
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pepsi1
Guru
| Posts: 1661
| Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/09/13 11:38 AM
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Joe I went on pace setter's web-site here's what I found:
96-99 with/out air pump Painted P/N 70-1320 Coated P/N 72C1320
96-99 with air pump Painted P/N 70-1332 Coated P/N 72C1332
Bob
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Posted: 01/09/13 02:26 PM
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They're supposed to fit . I got a good deal on them and I'm happy with them so far, until I saw that I dented the headers and that was my fault I won't lie, I used the impact gun on it. My only issue is that they're just a hair off, I bought them used so there is no telling if it was manufacture defect, dropped during shipment or storage.
I tightened them the bolts up hand tight with a ratcheting palm wrench, somewhere to 10-15f/lb torque and I drove to work this morning. My exhaust was leaking before I put the new cats on but it seems much more quiet now. I hope the bolts don't loosen up.
Mine are the 70-1320, black paint... More like natural metal now after the paint flakes off.
Here is a picture of about where the dent is, in red. Pacesetter said that I could try to baby it with some pliers.
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pepsi1
Guru
| Posts: 1661
| Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/09/13 04:36 PM
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I was going to suggest the pliers, but they leave marks. I don't know what else to tell you. I thought you were talking about the flange for the head. Try bending them back up. Maybe somebody will have some better advice sorry. Good luck
Bob
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Posted: 01/09/13 11:23 PM
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When I tightened her up last night and drove to work it sounded fine but as I got home, it started leaking. How much should I tighten the flange bolts?
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pepsi1
Guru
| Posts: 1661
| Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/09/13 11:46 PM
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Killer
I would tighten the bolts when the exhaust is hot. Use a grade (8) bolt. Have a couple spares in case you break them. Don't use a lock nut under the nut when you tighten it. If theres enough room use a flat washer. Then double nut the bolt, to secure it.
Bob
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pepsi1
Guru
| Posts: 1661
| Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/11/13 11:08 AM
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Killermiller777
I have been having a problem getting in our forums. So I may show as a new person.
Have you tried any of those things?
Bob
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Posted: 01/11/13 01:27 PM
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i wonder if you could just put a coinciding dent on the pipe, right where the red is in your picture of the header?

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Posted: 01/11/13 06:59 PM
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If I tighten it just enough it sounds good, but it loosens up by the time I make it to and from work. I tried to double nut them today on my lunch break but I tighted the flanges too much and now it's leaking.
I'm going to try to use a tail pipe expander if I can find one. I'll take a clear picture of the flange when I take them off so you guys can see my problem more clearly.
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Posted: 01/12/13 10:58 AM
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Here is the issue.

Here is my attempt to fix the cumpled header flange.

Here is my result. I'm considering removing some of the material that wrinkled. Any opinions on that?
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Posted: 01/12/13 12:00 PM
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I would think with the right body working tools you could find a way to reshape that flange pretty easily. Might take a torch and some heat. It should not be too big a deal. Just my $.02...
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Posted: 01/12/13 05:05 PM
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I went to Ace Hardware and found some flanged nuts and bolts. The nuts have a lock on them already and they're flanged so no washer, locknuts or double nut. I'm still considering if I should put a dab of the RTV on the threads to help keep them from backing off.


I put some RTV around the bowl and put it together. I'm not sure how much stayed in place and how effective the seal will be. I had a heck of a time getting the last nut on the inside passenger flange bolt. It's not too tight and I hope it seals and stays sealed.
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