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440 cubic inch big block chevy

  
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440 cubic inch big block chevy

 
JIM2532 JIM2532
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 01/13
Posted: 01/03/13
04:54 PM

Confused Hey,first time posting.just finished building a  427 tall deck block for my personal 61 chevy bubbletop.Line bored..+060 over on bore,decked, block cleaned,new cam bearings,new gm forged,tuffrided crank,Long forged rods,7/16 rod bolts,new King main and rod bearings,Mahle forged 12.5-1 pistons, MELLING HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP, Gm winters foundry aluminum heads ported, polished and matched to brodix airgap tall intake.Comp hydraulic roller with scorpion 1.7 roller rockers.double roller chain,Hei dist,stahl headers(3 INCH EXHAUST).hOLLEY 4150 850 CFM CARB,AND NEW PLUG WIRES..nOW.. HAVE SOME QUESTIONS  WHAT PLUGS WOULD YOU START WITH,HOW MUCH TIME CAN I RUN WITHOUT BURNING A PISTON? ALSO ANY IDEA ON HOW MUCH HORSEPOWER WOULD YOU GUESS THIS ENGINE WILL PRODUCE?Got this hooked to a rebuilt 4 speed muncie and a 9 inch for with 4.11 gears and equalock..Put in 5w30 mobil one oil and fram oil filter,New 4 core aluminum radiator.Appreciate your thoughts and assistance..ready to start it,excited,regards,Jim  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Guru | Posts: 1718 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/03/13
06:03 PM

JIM: DON'T USE MOBIL ONE(1) FOR THE BREAK IN. USE A 10/30-10/40. GET 5,000 MILES ON YOUR NEW ENGINE FIRST BEFORE LOADING IN THE SYNTHETIC OILS. (DON'T GO BY THE FACTORY CORVETTE) THEIR TOLERANCES ARE SO CLOSE. I CAN'T STRESS THAT ENOUGH!

If your firing the engine for the first time. Use an AC44 gap them @ .032-035. They may like those plugs. AC numbers run down for a colder plug. Don't use an AC PLUG with an R in it. R stands for resistor. You don't need that in your engine. Check and make sure you have the clearance  Grin  Cool  

For example-45HOT-44MED/HOT-43/COLD-42/Racing plug. When I ran my race engines I used NGKs. They make a V-Groove spark plug. Cross reference them over. Now what I told you about AC the Hot numbers are higher. NGK goes the opposite. Their numbers go up as colder, their lower numbers are hotter.

I would use one step colder in an automatic trans.

I would use two steps colder for a manual trans.  

pepsi1 pepsi1
Guru | Posts: 1718 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/03/13
07:24 PM

JIM2532 WELCOME TO CHP:

                 FOR THE INITIAL ENGINE START-UP

"DON'T USE A SYNTHETIC OIL FOR BREAK AND FOR THE FIRST 5,000 MILES."
IT WILL MAKE IT HARD FOR THE RINGS TO SEAT.

1.Use 10/30 or 10/40 for start-up. Fill the oil filter before you install it. Then put 4 quarts in the pan, unless you using a special deep oil pan.

2.Prime the Engine with a home made priming tool from an old distributor. Or purchase one from Jegs, for small and big block chevy. Use a good 3/8" to 1/2"drill motor, it will burn up a 1/4" drill motor. As your priming the engine rotate the engine 1/4 turn every so often. To ensure the oil gets into each of the lifters and up each push rod to the Rocker arms.

3.Set the timimg. Base at 12* BTDC. Total at 32* and all in at 2,400RPM (Reset  the timing after the engine has run) Use the AC44s to fire the engine. Then AC43s to run them. Check the spark plugs often for color. I guessing you will be using Racing gas.

4.Fill the carburetor with gas. Use the Carburetor the way it is out of the box. (Theres a method to my Madness). If you have to change the Jetting go up/or down .002 at a time.This way your not chasing a half dozen things.

5.Recheck all those settings,"IS YOUR HEART THUMPING YET"?

6. When the engine fires even with the Roller Cam bring the engine Rpm up to 2,500, and cycle it between 2,000-3,000. Do that for 30 minutes.

7.Check for any leaks. If NO LEAKS Coolant/Oil.

8.Drain the radiator and fill it with a 50/50 or a 70/30. Take you pride and joy for a ride. Take some coolant/water mix with you sometime you get air thats trapped that finally burps out. Turn the heater on and let a the water circulate through the heater core. Watch the water temperature, and the oil pressure. The longer you take to break your engine in the longer you will enjoy your ride. Because it really sounds like a nice ride, a 61 Bubble Top.

Jim you didn't give us specs for the cam. aluminum heads. So I couldn't guess on HP. I tell you what I would not do at least until you have 5,000 on it. I don't know how tight your engine bearings are, did you modify the oil pump.

A.You have all the Good Parts in that engine. You don't have to tell me how much time and money and love went into your ride. Thats why I'm conservative. I know you'll put your foot into it too, thats OKAY. Because it also serves a purpose. When you go WOT and let the engine come back down. The fuel that washes down the cylinders washes the oil away and  helps seat the piston rings.

1.No chassis dyno,I don't like them.(My 2 CENTS)I'm working with a guy on the car craft forum. That had a chassis dyno tune up. So far everything they did he has undone, except put the cam back where it should be. The engine has responded  to every change he has done. He needs a mechanic to do the engine work, and its on a Dodge engine, But like I said it's my 2 Cents.

2.If you take it to the track you need to set it up a little different.

3.Make one small change at a time.

4.The 3" exhaust  is that from the headers back.?

Good Luck. Grin  Cool

Bob  

Dave632 Dave632
Addict | Posts: 2218 | Joined: 07/08
Posted: 01/04/13
03:44 PM

I would listen to Bob as that is good advice.
My first BB was a 440, 4.31 bore and 3.75 stroke.
I would guess that you should be around 600 hp with
that setup. I don't think you are going to burn any
pistons, just check the plugs for proper burning and
you should be good.
I would think that should get you into the high 10s
low 11s depending on traction, driver, and how heavy
a 61 Chevy is.
Let us know it sounds interesting.  
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JIM2532 JIM2532
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 01/13
Posted: 01/06/13
03:26 PM

First,thank you so much for the SMARTS..Have not started it yet,will drain oil.ordered set of plugs before I got your imput ordered 45r,will return them(still in box)I have built lots of sbc over the years,first big block build..Tried to put the best parts availabe.Be 74 this july,Going to be buried in this car, lol. appreciate everything I have learned,thank you BOB..I will keep you gentlemen posted..Hope the 4 speed lives.Got to keep that right leg in shape.My grandsons(4) cant even drive a stick..Ole grandad going to teach them what fun is. stretched spring in the new melling pump just a bit,welded the pick up on pump body,3/8 from bottom of 7 quart pan..Any more suggestions?Please feel free.All smarts are greatly appreciated,BEST PERSONAL REGARDS,Jim  

JIM2532 JIM2532
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 01/13
Posted: 01/06/13
04:00 PM

Got the priming tool,I have forgotten the rod and main clearences(age) but I took The big block chevy book to the machine shop in Daytona beach,old man(my age) that used to do smokey  Yunics machine work did the rod and main work said he did it right..The little things sure make a difference.CAM is not super radical,comp cams recomended it for street and strip,complete kit,springs,roller lifters,said it was good for 6200rpms.lots of torque for heavy car(3400lbs)They were out of 1.7 rocker arms so I bought scorpion.Complete strange 9 INCH rear end with 35 spline axels AND EQUALOCK.Have a good friend my age who is helping me.Frame is black powder coated,tubular A frames in front 3 inch dropped spindles,large disc  on front,605 gear box,(couldnt afford rack and pinion)trying to build ME a car that I can enjoy, will keep you posted.Gentlemen,again thank you..Best personal regards,Jim  

Dave632 Dave632
Addict | Posts: 2218 | Joined: 07/08
Posted: 01/06/13
08:34 PM

The Ford 9" is a great choice for a rear in my opinion. It was my choice for most of my hot rods. Don't think you can't break it but it will last a lot longer than the original rear in that 61.
I had a Mark Williams 9" in the Beretta with bolt thru caps and it took 1000+ hp and 17" slicks without breakage.  
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pepsi1 pepsi1
Guru | Posts: 1718 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 01/06/13
09:47 PM

JIM2532

Thank's for all the compliments we all apreciate them you bet.
I've been at this as a hobby, engine builder, since I was 7 years old.  
 
  Like Dave said the 9" Ford is the way to go. When you have a design thats 50+ years old and it works leave it a lone. Yeah they are much stronger than 50 years ago but look at the Horse Power demands of today. Dave had a 632 Pro-Mod engine on 3 or 4 stages of juice. If Dave didn't break them with a 1,000HP I think...It's safe. They also have so many different gear ratios.
  If the rear is built correctly the housing should have a sight hole over the ring gear. You can remove the plug and visually look at the ring gear teeth. I was always a maintainenc freak. I checked things all the time. When my life is in the car thats going 140MPH 1/4 or in Dave's case 180MPH 1/8. Be Safe! I have a friend that nick-named me check and recheck...LOL...Safe then sorry! As you get to know the car, and you both become friends you'll know when its telling you something. I always had an assortment of wrenches in my pocket...LOL...
  If there is one thing I would suggest doing retorque those wheels. If on the street after 50 miles. Or at the track each run. Then go over all the chassis bolts, engine anything you can see. It's all new and fresh, and it sounds really nice.

Bob

PS...I my early days. I worked on Top Secret Classified Government projects. That lives depended on me knowing what I was doing. (There was no place for an oops)I'm sure this is where the check and re-check part of me came from.