carb nitrous setup on lsx motor

i currently in the process of building a lq4 408 nitrous motor for street/strip. im goin the carb setup on it. is there anybody making gadgets that allow me to pull timing away from the motor? im goin with 3 kits. recently i googled a search and the guys @ chp did an article with an ls2 402 with spray. the kit used was from tnt tx nitrous tech. they had a 3 kit system but only use 1 kit with 2 shots, 100hp on pump gas, changed the jets and the other 150hp on racing gas. i know guys running these motors have 2 or 3 kits are keeping fuel injected. if it can be done that way i know it can be done with the carb. thanks for any info on this and it'll greatly appreciated. o yeah its goin in a 3rd gen camaro  

OK now that is the Question I think the new crew is here for.HENRY........Fabian...WrightRacing,   Batter UP  

MSD Ignitions I've been using their electronics since the 1970's. get their disc catalog.  

3 kits are a lot of juice.
What kind of power are you planning to put down with this?
I hope you have the drivetrain and chassis to handle it.
Just as a reference I could not put down more than a 250 shot with
a professional full moly race chassis and 17" slicks.
I had 2 foggers and 2 plates on that and could use only one system.
This was on a motor that made about 1000 on its own.  
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+1 Dave
I'd strongly suggest aluminum rods to soften the impact load, with 3 shots of juice.
Steel rods will pound the bearings to pieces.

 
When The Flag Drops,,,



The Bull Chit Stops,,,

P. Engineer.,. Engine Builder

tuffnuff:
+1 Dave
I'd strongly suggest aluminum rods to soften the impact load, with 3 shots of juice.
Steel rods will pound the bearings to pieces.



Agreed.
One of my 632s had Oliver steel rods, which were great rods but the bearings were getting beat to death when running nitrous and had to be changed every 20-30 passes.
Another smaller motor, a 488", ran aluminum rods and the bearings looked like new even after 50-60 passes with a 400 shot.  
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I think I'd try 2 hits first and see how the car hooks up, before thinking about a 3rd shot and prolly losing traction, might drift out of the slot.,. and this could be a train wreck in the making.

 
When The Flag Drops,,,



The Bull Chit Stops,,,

P. Engineer.,. Engine Builder

i was planning on leaving on 150 shot 175 shot and then another 150. if it hooks well. each shot will be progressed in. if i can get 800 900hp motor with spray im good  

With 3 stages 8-900hp should be easy. Keeping everything together will be tougher.
Getting traction will be even tougher.
I had 2 foggers and 2 plates with more than a 1000 extra hp available, it was pretty useless to me.
I was not running on the best of tracks, even though they treated it all the way down, I had a lot of trouble hooking.
If I got out of the groove I was going sideways and that was only at a 250 shot.
It would leave OK for the first 40-60' but when the front end landed it could get skittish. I never made a full pass without letting up at least once on nitrous.
Starting on a smaller shot and adding more as you go down the track is a good idea.  
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i didnt think about the traction, and by the way you make it seem the third shot will be useless if the car is not hooking. what kind of electronics were you using to retard the timing when on the juice? i'm building a lsx motor with a carb setup with a stand alone coil on plug ignition. im looking for a box that can retard timing on both stages  

mr355:
i didnt think about the traction, and by the way you make it seem the third shot will be useless if the car is not hooking. what kind of electronics were you using to retard the timing when on the juice? i'm building a lsx motor with a carb setup with a stand alone coil on plug ignition. im looking for a box that can retard timing on both stages

I used an MSD 3 step retard with a 7AL and matching coil. That setup could fire a good 3-6" arc to ground, you did not want to get between that spark and ground. Of course good 8.8 wires. I never had any ignition problems with this setup.
What I mean about traction is that you need to have your car set up well to
handle that kind of power. All the power in the world will do you no good if you
can't put it to the ground. Bringing those three stages in when you have enough traction is a must.
Personally that was always my biggest trouble. I could make lots of power reliably but I could never get it to the ground. I also used a full JW Glide with a MW ford aluminum 9" with 40 spline gun drilled axles.
There are few racers on this site and I am always glad to pass on my experience to those who need it.
I ran a Pro Mod style heads up car back in the early 2000s with some success, in the 2003 season I won 2, finalist 2 other times, and made the semis in all the other events.  
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ok i gotcha! is the msd 3 step retard can be used on a lsx motor? along with the 7al box. or can the 3 step be used  in conjunction with the msd 6ls module  

I would contact MSD and they should answer your question about the 6ls being compatible with the 3 step. I would guess it would work with it but I would check with the manufacturer.  
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