sbc 355

im new to this i read all the time i have a 355 im building its going in a s 10 trying to get input on my parts i have so far and if im going in right direction  it zero decked 30 over 350 dart pro1 227 64cc alum srp p/n279480 pistons manlay 6inch alum rods super comp headers 10,1 compression msd distributor and al6 box. need good cam and anything u guys can help with would be awsome any horspower guesstimates to would be good to thanks i forgot to list my intake rpm air gap thanks for any info  

Welcome aboard bri355:

You left out a few things for us to help you!

We know its an S-10

Weight, rear gear ratio who's rear make. ie 9" 12 bolt? Posi or open Tire size, Transmission being used automatic or manual? ETC......    

Thank you pepsi 1 for your reply 27 inch by 11 tire 12 bolt 373 gaers 2700 pounds 350 turbo 3000 stall converter thank you for your input any info you can give me would be very very helpful thank you im looking foreword to reply.i been told u gays r the best motor builders around......  

Welcome to chp bri355.  



Professional Hi-performance engine builder

PLEASE HELP,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,ME  

Please be patient bri, the best engine builders should chime in soon, to help you.
Us old guys are only 2nd or 3rd rate engine builders.,. so please forgive us, we're here to learn new tricks from the pros, just like you.

 
When The Flag Drops,,,



The Bull Chit Stops,,,

P. Engineer.,. Engine Builder

Going with the parts you have and now need to complete a nice package. This is a partial combination from a proven Drag Race engine I have built. Your heads are a little smaller then what I used but the Dart Pro i's are good for this application. I also used a Scat steel 6" rod. The aluminum rods I use for an all out Drag Race engine, something that sees 8,000 RPM as a near minimum. If you can find a set of Oldsmobile Diesel connecting rods they are 6"inch, and rework them. Or purchase a set of Scat 6" inch steel rods. This is only my suggestion as I don't know what your buget is for this build. When I built this combo. I used mainly used parts. The total parts bill was $2,700 with the labor!

MAKE SURE YOU RUN AMPLE VALVE TO PISTON CLEARANCES............

Comp Cam P/N 12-221-5

Comp Cam Lifters

Comp Cams Magnum roller rockers with 1.6 on intake and 1.5 on exhaust

Comp Cam push rods standard length

Cloyes timing set 9-3100

Reworked Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake.

Reworked 850 Holley with annular discharge

Fel-Pro complete engine set, Or Cometic-MLS. This is where you need to be careful,
your compression will suffer. Use a composite gasket set for valve to piston clearance.

Stock reworked oil pump

Moroso oil pan

K&N air filter

Your ignition set base timing at 14 to 16 degrees,
and total of 38 degrees or more if it wants and needs it, all in at 3500 RPM.

My set-up Dynoed at 504 Foot pounds of torque
and 496 horse power. There are some differences
but this is a strong little small block.

Use all your ignition parts.  

You may need more rear gear. Your torque convertor
should be right on the money.Good Luck and have fun............
Thanks,
Bob  

Tuff

How did you know the best engine builders are older. Well I just woke up from my nap.....LOL...  
Thanks
Bob  

"Most" accomplished engine builders that I know of, sport a receeding hairline or grey hair and maturity.,. why, because it takes years to accumulate knowledge.
I've built more engines than I can remember and as you already know, my reasons for saying little on "this" forum.,. are for obvious reasons.
Management prefers that I remain silent.,. for the most part.
It's sad but true and unfortunate for the young crowd that is eager to learn.
You have a good one bud.

 
When The Flag Drops,,,



The Bull Chit Stops,,,

P. Engineer.,. Engine Builder

Tuff:

I've noticed also there are a younger group that are eager to learn. We have talked about bench racing sessons and the important things that come from it. A lot of the information given I've noticed is by people who have never assembled an engine let alone built one, and they have the answers. Stay with us bud..
Thank's for your expertise!
Bob  

you'd be best to rethink the cylinder head selection, or rethink the rest of the combo.

on 355 inches, those heads will shine at 7000 plus rpm.  The valve/throat/MCSA isnt suited for making strong power on a small cubic inch engine at low rpm.

So its going to take some cam to make the rpm.  And that cam is going to want more compression, and when its all said and done its gonna want more converter and gear also.

There are a couple things that are important with heads.  The two big players are cross section and port velocity.  You can only expect air to go so fast before it cant go any faster.  At that point....it does not matter how well a head theoretically flows.  It just cannot move any more air than it already is if the airspeed thru the port gets too high.  This is essentially what creates your rpm ceiling.

The minimum cross section, usually measured at the pushrod pinch(but is sometimes actually at the throat but not often) plays a big role in dictating airspeed.

Its like if you tried to breathe thru a straw.  Youd definitely be able to take full breaths in and out, but it would take you longer because your breathing thru an object with a small small cross section.  

If you were doing something(like running) where your body required you to breathe faster....you can only expect to be able to draw air in thru the straw so fast before that straw becomes a major crutch and you cannot pull in enough air fast enough.

on the exact opposite token...too much csa usually equates to low velocity at slow engine speed.  too little velocity makes for a lazy engine at lower rpms.


I can show you some of the math involved to figure things like valve curtain area needed and MCSA and airspeed needed to support a given displacement engine at different rpm levels.

In order to use that info though you have to dig deep.  Port cc alone or flow numbers wont tell you any of this.  Gotta look a little harder for the other info in order to figure out if its gonna be right.  

And if I were to build this engine on a 355 platform with those heads....  Minimum a ported vic junior intake, minimum 12:1 compression(but if youve gone that high might as well go higher....we're already buying good fuel) solid flat tappet or solid roller cam.  

Id have the cam look something like 258/268 at .050 .630/.600 lift 108lsa.

It would want a 4.56 out back at least and a 5000 plus converter.  Shift about 6800 roll thru the traps at 7k plus.  

Do you actually read what some guys write?

Why would that be? This combination works, and why make any changes to it. We dyno are engines and make sure the numbers are good before I put my name on it! I try and work with guys that write in and tell us what they have.    

I saw the combo but I didnt see displacement, compression, or actual heads used.  These things can make a lot of diffrence here.  Even two heads of 227 cc in the port can look and act different enough from one another that it takes a different cam to get the job done

I didnt see the type of rpm it was turning or anything like that either.  

There is always multiple ways to skin a cat.  If you wanna use that particular dart head to its potential, it likes some rpm if its only gonna be on a 355.  Even if it makes a strong showing in the 3000-6000rpm range, another head geared towards this rpm range would produce a stronger average power number without giving up peak power.  

I have no problem with what I saw of that combination, but if that combo were used in this 355, there are other heads that Id pick over the dart 227.  

U gays r awesome I love reading this about this combo. I have u gays r helping me out a lot and I'm hooked .this is by far the best I have 1400 in motor now please keep going I'm trying to write this with my phone so excuse the screwups on the right if anyone needs any more information