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454 Rebuild

  
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454 Rebuild

 
chevelle83 chevelle83
Addict | Posts: 2280 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 09/19/11
03:28 PM

ok I am finally getting to rebuild the 454 its going in a 83 crew cab dually, yes it is a work horse engine not for racing

here is a pic of it when I pulled it out of the 1990 suburban
DSC00587

The recipient of the new mill
DSC00555

we'll start with the block its a 1990-1991 gen VI block the casting numbers are kinda crude but there is no doubt what it is cause I pulled it from the truck
DSC03580

the heads are of course peanut port truck heads and that is perfectly fine for me and this application
DSC03579


I tore the engine down and it was in excellent condition with 150,000 miles on it with almost no ring groove
here are the heads after they were re worked,,, the cost was $130 and they did a nice job
DSC03586

I guess I should mention the safety part is this rebuild,,,,,,,,,, if you have never handled a big block engine,,, they are heavy,about (750 Lbs fully dressed) so DO NOT use a cheap 3 wheel engine stand,,,, it will break!!!!!!

I used a 4 wheel 1000# stand it has solid key stock and all grade 8 hardware.
DSC03591

the block:
DSC03589

the original bores were in great shape,,, so I did not have it bored. If it dont need it its a waste of money.

I had the machine shop, vat, install cam bearings and freeze plugs, and hone it. for a cost of $130 that did not include the parts.
DSC03590

I didnt take any pics of the crank,rods and pistons yet so they will be coming soon.  

idrivejunk idrivejunk
Addict | Posts: 5117 | Joined: 12/09
Posted: 09/19/11
05:33 PM

I gotta say nice prices at your machine shop! Did you get any new valvesprings or valves or hardware, what did they do to the valve guides, and I reckon thats the plain jane valve lap job, right? Thats the cool thing about a BBC, they are made to last. Looks like a nice hone but yeah theres that little shadow on that back hole, eh? I bet those peanut heads will do ya proud in the truck and this thing will be trouble free when you're done. Nice thread, it will be cool to see all the bearings fit together, that part scares me. What brand of torque wrench and lube do you use?

Oh and I can dig your engine stand, that is definitely the heavier duty variety.  Cool  
idrivejunk

chevelle83 chevelle83
Addict | Posts: 2280 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 09/20/11
09:08 AM

Icon Quoteidrivejunk:
I gotta say nice prices at your machine shop! Did you get any new valvesprings or valves or hardware, what did they do to the valve guides, and I reckon thats the plain jane valve lap job, right? Thats the cool thing about a BBC, they are made to last. Looks like a nice hone but yeah theres that little shadow on that back hole, eh? I bet those peanut heads will do ya proud in the truck and this thing will be trouble free when you're done. Nice thread, it will be cool to see all the bearings fit together, that part scares me. What brand of torque wrench and lube do you use?

Oh and I can dig your engine stand, that is definitely the heavier duty variety.  Cool


oh absolutely, there junkman.

yeah there is a slight ring at the top of the bores, but you cant hardly detect with  a finger.  upon inspection I decided to go with it considering the compression and power level of this engine

valve guides were knurled,,,, how about some videos for the newbies:try the links
 http://youtu.be/oN4_oKsUdvA  


and part II:http://youtu.be/OJx-5sus4yA

yes I did get the new valve springs recommended for the cam, they are 120# on the seat and 350# open.  I didnt get crazy with the springs simply cause I didnt need them for this application  However I will add that If I was gonna push this engine past 5500 RPM I would go with stronger springs,, big blocks have much bigger heavier valves and just need more spring. If you add high compression and or forced induction it just goes up from there.  

chevelle83 chevelle83
Addict | Posts: 2280 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 09/20/11
09:13 AM

here are some pics of the parts

the cam:
DSC03593

DSC03596

matching springs, I did not get the lock and retainer kit cause my originals were good.
DSC03603

I like clevite bearings
DSC03605

and premium moly rings:
DSC03597  

chevelle83 chevelle83
Addict | Posts: 2280 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 09/20/11
09:25 AM

I am taking a long shot here with a product I never tried before,, its these crower lifters with an extra oiling groove in the side of the lifter
look closely at the pic, I used a blue marker to highlight the area where it is
DSC03612

I am trying this cause big blocks oil the crank shaft first or (priority main oiling)  and will eat a cam more easily than a small block.
 These are supposed to allow much more oil to the cam with only a 1-2 PSI drop in oil pressure.  

the cost was an extra $95 for these and if they do what they say it will be a worthy cost with todays low to no zddp oils.

OH,,,,,let me add that while I was buying the parts the guys told me at Summit that the MFG, will NOT! warranty a cam if you did not purchase the oil additive for the flat tappet cams!!!! Im sure they would want the recipt if you did send off for a warranty???????  

so be sure to grab some, any brand name should do:$11
DSC03606

they also said (idk how true it is) that rotella had removed the zddp from their oil as well!!  SO,,,,,, looks like it will be some of this in every oil change from now on,,,,,,, (how much money and headache would a flattened cam cost)  

chevelle83 chevelle83
Addict | Posts: 2280 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 09/20/11
09:25 AM

.  

redneckjoe69 redneckjoe69
Addict | Posts: 2337 | Joined: 03/10
Posted: 09/20/11
09:36 AM

excellent thread chevelle. Cool   pictures say a 1,000 words.   i didnt know that about rotella.  i just switched to it a month ago. Frown    i guess its back to valvoline?       best wishes on the build! Laugh  

chevelle83 chevelle83
Addict | Posts: 2280 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 09/20/11
10:00 AM

thanks joe,,, lets not panic yet,,,,,, well I am gonna keep the rotella, I am just gonna add the supplement.  I only change the oil in these dually trucks about once a year.

so as far as I am concerned $20 a year for extra engine insurance is nothing to worry about.

all I know about rotella, or diesel oil in general,,,, Is a good friend of mine is a diesel mechanic,,,,, he works for a big trucking company,,, they change the oil every 25,000 miles!!!!! imagine what kind of pressures are on those huge engines and they normally go 1 million + miles before they sell the tractors.

I have physically seen the rod and main bearings from a few 600,000 mile cat engines and I would have left the bearings alone!!!!!

their practice is to change all bearings and thrust washers in the bottom end at that interval no matter what.  

Pontiacman2 Pontiacman2
Moderator | Posts: 8956 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 09/20/11
01:46 PM

I do not believe that for a second as rotella is diesel oil and they can't remove the high pressure additives from diesel engines .

They most likely told you this because the more that buy that additive the more money they make.

I still use VR-1 for cam breakin and never had any problems what so ever and the only additive I have used is STP.  
Pontiacman2
Pontiacman2

Professional Hi-performance engine builder

chevelle83 chevelle83
Addict | Posts: 2280 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 09/20/11
02:19 PM

well is there any real way to know for sure?????????????????????  I agree simply due to to number of older diesel engines on the road. but IDK for sure.  

Pontiacman2 Pontiacman2
Moderator | Posts: 8956 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 09/20/11
02:36 PM

No not that I know of but I will still keep doing what I have been for years with no problems and leave the salesman to tell what they think they know.  
Pontiacman2
Pontiacman2

Professional Hi-performance engine builder

skyeking skyeking
Addict | Posts: 2738 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 09/21/11
06:21 PM

Laugh Hi Agent 69,
 I use Valvoline XLD Lite Diesel in my ZZ4.....
 55,000 miles and well.
 All the best to all the gang...  
skyeking

redneckjoe69 redneckjoe69
Addict | Posts: 2337 | Joined: 03/10
Posted: 09/23/11
01:10 PM

hows the build coming chevelle?     hey skye!    ive used valvoline vr1 for years with no problem.  so im not worried about going back to it.  

chevelle83 chevelle83
Addict | Posts: 2280 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 09/23/11
09:21 PM

hows it goin sky?  whassup joe?  

today I got started on it with cleaning up the pistons and crank shaft and sheet metal parts.

tomm hopefully will boast some serious engine assembly goin on,,,,,,,,, so I will be able to exercise the camera and get this build  under way,,,,,,,,,,.


well I blew up my ford escort this mornin,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, about 1/4 mile from the house I believe it dropped a valve,,,,,,, that sucks cause it was my cheapy work car,,,,,,, its pretty much shot out with 200,000 miles on it and beat all to crap so I aint gonna bother fixing it,,,,,,,,,, looks like a trip to the scrap yard.  

idrivejunk idrivejunk
Addict | Posts: 5117 | Joined: 12/09
Posted: 09/24/11
06:33 AM

Man that sux. The cheapo driver is a must.  Frown

I was asking about assembly lube, not so much oil. Y'all are talking about Rotella T, right? There are a half dozen other oils that bear the name. I decided retro-roller cams are the way to go (for ME) if engine lifespan is a concern. Theres really no other way to assure that the engine will be usable in the future. I mean, do y'all think in 2021 there will even be automotive oil available (or AFFORDable) thats suitable without additives for use in a flat-tappet engine? I observe the trend and doubt it. I also think that if I want to drive a vehicle long distances with iron heads and without EFI, I'll take a cue from the OEMs and stick to 8.5-9.0:1 compression, simply due to fuel availability in the United States.

Anyhoo, yeah I'm ready to see your walkthrough, Chevelle. Bust out the fun engine tools!  Cool  
idrivejunk

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