Questions about this 327 Corvette motor??????

I just picked up a 46' International Harvester truck to Rat Rod / Hot Rod with my kids. Today, I came across someone selling a 327. I've been keeping my eyes open for a motor and trans to have ready when I build the new frame. I went over and put a deposit down and will pick up the motor on Monday. The guy had 2 C2's. One was a split window. Both were unreal. He pulled this motor out of the split window and had it rebuilt. Then decided to go Big Block Stroker. So he is selling me this motor. I was kinda looking for a 350/350 setup. Or a Ford 289/302 & C4 setup.
Not knowing much about the 327 and what it's all about, can you guys tell me if I did good or made a mistake. And what auto transmission should I look for.
Here is the info the guy had posted about the motor.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Rebuilt 63 Corvette 327 Engine

This engine came out of a 1963 Corvette Split Window I recently bought. I’m putting a stoker motor in the ’63 so this is for sale. Block was bored to .060” over with new TRW pop up pistons with molly rings, double roller riming chain turns a new Crane Fireball cam with advertised duration of 286°. Block also has new cam bearings and freeze plugs. Crank was turned to .020”-.020” with new Clevite rod and main bearings – new high volume oil pump with hypo intermediate shaft. Heads are angle plug Fuely Double hump with stainless 2.02” intakes and 1.60” exvalves. Heads are street ported (reworked bowls and gasket matched). Heads have screw in studs with CompCam guide plates with Hypo 3/8” pushrods. Heads just redone with new guide bushings, perfect circle seals and perfect 3 angle valve job with LTI springs. Valve covers are genuine Corvette highly polished. Intake is Offenhauser 360° equa-flow manifold that is gasket matched to heads. Included is a junk QuadraJet carb that’s been sitting in a box for 25 years. I would recommend a new Edlebrock (manifold is for AFB, QuadraJet type carbs – Hollys don’t fit). The factory Hypo Rams Horn exhaust manifolds with 2-1/2 outlets are also available for extra money; flywheel also available. Engine built by El Mirage 200 MPH and Bonneville 200 MPH Club member with 40 years of race engine building experience.  

Sounds like a sweet package for your rod,,, not much a 330 (327 + .020") can't do that a 350 does.
The trade off is a bit less bottom end torque for the 327, but it gains in the RPM department.
How much is he asking for the Ram Horns by the way?
I might be interested for a ***
 
When The Flag Drops,,,



The Bull Chit Stops,,,

P. Engineer.,. Engine Builder

MAIDEN69:
I just picked up a 46' International Harvester truck to Rat Rod / Hot Rod with my kids. Today, I came across someone selling a 327. I've been keeping my eyes open for a motor and trans to have ready when I build the new frame. I went over and put a deposit down and will pick up the motor on Monday. The guy had 2 C2's. One was a split window. Both were unreal. He pulled this motor out of the split window and had it rebuilt. Then decided to go Big Block Stroker. So he is selling me this motor. I was kinda looking for a 350/350 setup. Or a Ford 289/302 & C4 setup.
Not knowing much about the 327 and what it's all about, can you guys tell me if I did good or made a mistake. And what auto transmission should I look for.
Here is the info the guy had posted about the motor.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Rebuilt 63 Corvette 327 Engine

This engine came out of a 1963 Corvette Split Window I recently bought. I’m putting a stoker motor in the ’63 so this is for sale. Block was bored to .060” over with new TRW pop up pistons with molly rings, double roller riming chain turns a new Crane Fireball cam with advertised duration of 286°. Block also has new cam bearings and freeze plugs. Crank was turned to .020”-.020” with new Clevite rod and main bearings – new high volume oil pump with hypo intermediate shaft. Heads are angle plug Fuely Double hump with stainless 2.02” intakes and 1.60” exvalves. Heads are street ported (reworked bowls and gasket matched). Heads have screw in studs with CompCam guide plates with Hypo 3/8” pushrods. Heads just redone with new guide bushings, perfect circle seals and perfect 3 angle valve job with LTI springs. Valve covers are genuine Corvette highly polished. Intake is Offenhauser 360° equa-flow manifold that is gasket matched to heads. Included is a junk QuadraJet carb that’s been sitting in a box for 25 years. I would recommend a new Edlebrock (manifold is for AFB, QuadraJet type carbs – Hollys don’t fit). The factory Hypo Rams Horn exhaust manifolds with 2-1/2 outlets are also available for extra money; flywheel also available. Engine built by El Mirage 200 MPH and Bonneville 200 MPH Club member with 40 years of race engine building experience.

If that motor came out of the vette, the guy is a fool for selling it. Numbers matching Vette is priceless. Even a non numbers matching but still a Vette motor would bring big dollars. So the motor more than likely is not a Corvette motor, but just a 327 out of an Impala or Nova that was in a Vette. Now a .060 .020/.020 crank motor is not worth much, it's on the worn out side of the rebuild chain. If you keep this thing long enough and you need to rebuild it again, you will have an .080 block .030/.030 crank motor. Not very desirable rebuild. Now for some reason it is a correct casting numbers date code correct Vette motor, sell it for top dollar and you could probably get a 383 Chevy create motor with the money from the sale. Good Luck.  
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Brotherhood of Street Racers

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+1
I have a numbers matching '75 Trans Am 4 gear with air and I wouldn't think of splitting up the original factory package. Only a fool would do that and then sell off a rare motor, for a run of the mill 383.
Crazy,,, but get on it quick and drag that 327 home,,, fore he changes his mind.
 
When The Flag Drops,,,



The Bull Chit Stops,,,

P. Engineer.,. Engine Builder

that was the first thing i thought.a #s matching 63 split window vette is a very valuable car.if i was gonna build a hot rod i would get something else and leave the vette original.  

like maybe triple figures valuable if restored to a high quality  

Block #s are hard to read. Almost like a blob of weld hit a couple spots???? I tried to grind it off but don't want to mess with it. From what I can make out though, looks like 2782870
Not sure what the date stamp is or where it is.  

Well Maiden,,,
I found your needle in the haystack,,,
3782870....327 Cubic Inch...62-67...2 Bolt Mains
Your "suffix" number is right below the passenger side head/just above where the water pump bolts to the block.
There is a pad and you might have to scratch the grime and paint off, to see the numbers.
I believe the numbers start with RE*******
But I'm not positive cuz it was many years ago when I had a 63 Vette.
Check it out.
 
When The Flag Drops,,,



The Bull Chit Stops,,,

P. Engineer.,. Engine Builder

tuffnuff:
Well Maiden,,,
I found your needle in the haystack,,,
3782870....327 Cubic Inch...62-67...2 Bolt Mains
Your "suffix" number is right below the passenger side head/just above where the water pump bolts to the block.
There is a pad and you might have to scratch the grime and paint off, to see the numbers.
I believe the numbers start with RE*******
But I'm not positive cuz it was many years ago when I had a 63 Vette.
Check it out.


Good job Tuff- Well so far so good, your casting number is a recognized 1963 327 Vette casting. Now you need to verify the casting date and the engine suffix to narrow it down from a reg car or truck to a Vette motor.

Here is some 411 hope it helps:
Casting Date
Small block casting date is located on driver side rear of block on flange forward of bellhousing. Big block on the right side of engine above the oil pan rails.
Casting Date Example: E038 - (E = Month, 03 = Day, 8 = Last digit of model year (1978)).

Month: A = Jan, B = Feb, C = Mar, D = Apr, E = May, F = Jun, G = July, H = Aug, I = Sep, J = Oct, K = Nov, L = Dec


Here is some more of the same 411:
All GM castings be it small or big block, heads or cranks, intakes or even distributors have casting dates. A letter followed by a series of numbers denotes the month day and year the part was made. The letters are first and denote a month.

A = January
B = February
C = March
D = April
E = May
F = June
G = July
H = August
I = September
J = October
K = November
L = December

The first set of numbers denotes the day and can be 1 or 2 digits. The second set denotes the year and can be 1 to 4 digits in length.

e.g.
F18 = June 1st of 68, 78, 88 or 98.
F238 = June 23rd of 68, 78, 88 or 98.
F2378 = June 23rd of 1978.
F231978 = June 23rd of 1978.

When you combine the casting number and casting date you can determine the true year and application of most castings. If you had a casting date of F238 on a block with a casting number of 3931174 you can tell that this 307 block was cast on June 23rd of 1968 since that block casting was only available in the 60's and not the 70-90 years.

Blocks also have a third ID marker. Suffix codes. A suffix code is stamped into the front of the motor at the end of the head on the passenger side just above the water pump to block passage on all small blocks and most big blocks, some big blocks have this number just above the center of the timing cover in a little flat recess. This code usually has a long series of letters and numbers. Generally they start with a letter than denotes what engine assembly plant they came from.

F = Flint S = Saginaw T = Towanda V = Flint H = Hydramatic K = Canada M = Mexico

They are then followed by the assembly date that is 3-4 digits long. The assembly date is usually stamped with the first 1 or 2 digits for the month and the next 2 for the day. V0822 = Flint plant August 22nd. The last 1-3 digits are the suffix code. The last 1-3 digits are normally letters but some 3-digit versions include numbers. A typical suffix code was used for several years and engines in several makes and model cars. Suffix codes typically can't be the only source of ID. Also since these numbers are STAMPED into the surface they can be faked and/or modified. Also most performance enthusiast have blocks decked. When they are machined this way it removes the suffix code.
 
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Brotherhood of Street Racers

My Space Brotherhood of Street Racers
http://www.myspace.com/brotherhoodofstreetracers

BSR-International
http://bsr-international.ning.com/

I reckon I'm nine minutes late, all I know is the 420      

hell ya 420 lol  

+1
EKF,,,
That,,, pretty much sums it up for the block ID,,,
Strange that a guy would part with the "right" engine, especially a Corvette that could be worth $50,000 plus.
 
When The Flag Drops,,,



The Bull Chit Stops,,,

P. Engineer.,. Engine Builder

he musta spent too much time with junkman in the 420 paint booth      

Yeah,,, sniffin aromatic fumes kinda clouds the mind over, huh
 
When The Flag Drops,,,



The Bull Chit Stops,,,

P. Engineer.,. Engine Builder

Yeah they probably leave the fans off on purpose too.  Whew,,, 420 and paint fumes at the same time. LOL