new engine issues

so i finally swapped the 350 out for a 383 stroker in my 72 chevy k10. Being fairly new to engine swapping, i'm left scratching my head on a couple things.

I'm getting what i assume is low vacuum because the brake booster doesnt seem to be working now.(could i just disconnect the vacuum line from the carb and plug it into one of the intake runners?)

the engine idles great but once the truck is put into drive it bogs down and almost stalls out. (maybe the carb is running too rich, i've got the mixture screws on the holley street avenger backed out 3.5 turns apiece)

i've got a clear fuel filter and it seems to be empty while the engine is running, then when i shut down, it fills with fuel that looks like its bubbling or boiling.

Thanks for any and all help on this i'm really looking forward to getting these resolved so i can drive again.  

Whats the specs on the cam? Too big of a cam will cause vacuum problems.  Yes you can pull vacuum from intake for brake booster. Do you have brake booster and PCV pulling vacuum from same source?  Check timing for your stalling when put in gear problem. Timing to low can cause that.  

not sure the specs on the cam (i'm at work right now) but i believe its about .500 lift. the timing definately needs to be fine tuned. i set the timing to zero, then about 1/4 inch advance turn on the distributor cap. and right now, the brake booster is getting vacuum from the port on the carburetor. no pcv valve either, i think i'll need to put a breather or something on the other valve cover, as it has an oil filler cap on it and i think its building too much pressure and causing a nasty oil leak down the rear-passenger side of the block.  

might need more timing than that, i would see what its at and make sure your carb is tuned right. i would get a pvc valve too.  

You need more timing. Is your carb new. I ask cause normally in the install directions the manufacturers will recommend a setting for initial(mechanical) timing. My 625 road demon recommends between 14-16 degrees initial timing. I dont think you would have enough vacuum through the pcv to operate the brake booster properly. There should be a port for a full vacuum source on your intake manifold.  

set timing,tune carb,install PCV,pull brakebooster vacuum from intake. Cover the basics first then let us know how it goes  

well i went to start the engine yesterday to do some timing and tuning and it wasnt starting and making alot of noise. turns out the dowel pin on the back of the crank that runs through the flexplate came out and was bouncing around and tearing up my oil pan. i was already looking for a really nasty oil leak so i decided to pull the engine back out. i came to find that the six flexplate bolts were loose. i put some arp thread sealer on them and reinstalled. i think i have the oil leak under control. some cheap valve covers were to blame, as they didnt fit correctly on the heads. bending the valve cover lips out let it seat better on the gasket. after i put the engine in it runs great, but i still need to tweak the timing (moved the dist. advanced some more, now it sounds like it may have been too much) without a timing light i really cant be sure. the carb also needs a little fine tuning and i have to find some vacuum for my break booster yet. i think i will end up just getting and electric vacuum pump.

2 bolt block from a 92 chevy
eagle cast steel crank
eagle "SIR" rods
speed pro hypereutectic dish pistons
moroso 7 qt oil pan
procomp aluminum heads 2.02/1.60
summit roller rockers
professional products aluminum intake
hooker comp. headers
flowmaster delta 40 mufflers

should all work togather right?  

and a holley 670 street avenger that i bought slightly used.  

maybe after i put the air cleaner back on i'll get more vacuum?  

Congrats on getting some of the problems took care of. Why cant you pull vacuum from the intake?  

you dont need brakes......j/k, at least you found most of your problems. you can take it in and get the timing done by a pro. unless thats not your kinda bag.  

i might have to just take it in to a professional to get the timing fine tuned. i'll try drawing vacuum direct from the intake. if not, oh well, i'll just have to push harder on the brake pedal.    

Why drive an unsafe car?  

+ 1000
Should have used loctite on the flywheel bolts though.

If your taking it to a pro for timing you might as well ask them about the vacuum source for your brakes. Every intake i have ever worked with has had a port in the back of the intake just to the rear of the carb on the passenger side. Ive looked at the PP intakes and all of them have a port in the usual spot.  

i have no power brakes, it sucks.