cam help for my 383 build

Nice cam choice  

Are the valve seats ready for no lead gas? The guides may also need replacing. Those heads are very out of date. But they also have that old school thing going. So does the torker intake. I bought a bare set of bow tie phase 2's still in the boxes for $100. each. Take your time. Visit machine shops for good used parts. The carb and cam sound like a go. Anyone remember the 350ci / 350hp cam from 1970. That is a nice hyd cam for a mild engine.  

Be careful with your oil choice for flat tappet cam. Auto manfacturers went to roller cams. Therefore oil companies removed the minerals from the oil that were used to lubricate the flat tappet cams. You cannot just go to the store and pick up a bottle of oil and know it is ok for your engine. Even the deisel oils of today are loosing the same minerals. There are several sites with information on this. Look for one posted by Sweaton. I use Valvoline VR-1 in 10/30w which I have to order. I have seen engines with less than 500 miles on them with wiped out cam lobes and even distributor gears ruined.  

+1 i use a zddp additive on every oil change,its cheap insurance.  

mrp,,,
I remember the engine well, and I'm still building them 40 years after they were introduced.
Here are the specs.
Of the Chevy 350/350 horse engine parts, the hydraulic camshaft and lifters have a major role to play. The intake valve lift/duration of the Chevy 350 engine camshaft are .457"/268*. The exhaust valve lift/duration are .457"/268*. The intake valve, as well as,  the exhaust valve duration is @ .050": 218*. The rocker arm ratio is 1.5 to 1. The intake valve lobe centerline specification is 105*  while the lobe separation specification is 110*.
 
When the Flag Drops... the Bull Chit Stops...

Oil companies removed sulphur and zink from oil blends,,, for environmental reasons.
Comp Cams and others make an additive for flat tappet cams.
I run it all the time, not just for break in purposes.
 
When the Flag Drops... the Bull Chit Stops...

You guys are right on the oil. There are only a few oils that are good enough to use alone and they cost. But $40.00 for 5 - 6 quarts and a K&N filter 1 or 2 times a year is still not much. If you go to the big shows sometimes you can get these oils on the last day so they don't have to take them back at a cheaper price.  

amsoil  

Valvoline VR-1 racing oil  
Professional hi-performance engine builder.
Horsepower sells Engines and torque wins races.

VR-1 is good stuff
 
When the Flag Drops... the Bull Chit Stops...

Sure is.  
Professional hi-performance engine builder.
Horsepower sells Engines and torque wins races.

Poor man's flat-tappet engine oil: Shell Rotella (still has wear additives)

Using that Comp Cams break in lube always is a good idea.  

i hear good things about the chevron delo-400 also.  

4-5 years Rotella and Delvac were good choices but the EPA wants the wear additives reduced there also. I think that Delvac has gone below what flat tappets need now. And Rotella is getting close. If you ever see a flat tappet cam that came from an engine without the right oil you will be surprised at the extreme wear on the lobes. The lobes can wear so much that the rocker arms get so loose that they are close to falling off the pushrod.  

I just saw a post on another site that has pics of the lifter and cam from using the wrong oil. You should take a look. It is labeled as killed my cam.