SUB FRAME CONNECTORS

Hi everyone

 I'm putting together an 85 T/A for some street fun. Been told frame connectors would be adviseable w/t-tops. Does it make a difference if sprung or unsprung weight when installing? What's the right way to install the connectors. Does the car need to be exactly level when raised? Wondering because my work surface is not exactly level. Matter of fact it's about as level as my backyard.
 Maybe frame connectors are not needed, I'm stuffing a 70's era 4 bolt 350 w/the stock 5 speed stick, also the car has t-tops that don't leak (yet).
 Thanks for any help on this.  

how much torque is your 350 going to make?  

Not sure, it's a +.030 350 4 bolt, around a 70-73 model. I'm installing the LT 1 performer cam, a Wien intake, carter afb, hugger headers 2 into 1 into 2 exh. HEI ignition. Heads are freshened up but stock as far as I know. Motor holds like 140 lbs compression across the board. (It, the motor, flat made my pick up truck jump.) Horsepower or torque, I haven't got a clue. Should be a marked improvement from the 305 in it now.

 I'm trying to decide if installation of the frame connectors are w/sprung or unsprung weight or if it even matters. Pretty much for sure I'm going to use them though. Unless someone knows why I shouldn't & can convince me of it.

                                               Thanks for any help  

Krashish, you want the sub-frame connectors with cars that have open, or in your case semi-open tops.

The car is a unibody and the roof is where most of the structural rigidity comes from on these cars. When the factory cut out 95% of it for those pretty little glass tops they also take out some of the chassis stiffness. This is not usually an issue with the weak ass stock engine, and limp as a noodle stock suspension.
When you put a stronger engine and with stiffer suspension and swaybars (you ARE planning on upgrading that cheesy 80's suspension, right?)the frame is asked to do more.

When installing the connectors you want the car on a level surface and with the car on the ground. It's relatively painless, just time consuming.

Jake  

I dont want to worry you, but that stock t-5 will probobly break before you twist the frame. Thats why GM didnt put the tpi 350 with a 5 speed in camaros from the factory.
Do the connectors anyways though, especially since you have t-tops. if you can weld, get the weld in only connectors. They will be a part of the body and are stronger than the bolt-ons. If not get the bolt on ones and tack weld them in place. I purchased my weld on ones for 80 bucks, but the bolt ons are approx 250+, depending on where you get them.  

I would agree with Jake on this one.  

The T5 is a fairly strong trans usually. GM opted to cut some expenses when they ordered their version, so they have weak first and second gear clusters, bearings are iffy, and the main shaft is known to flex under excessive load (as in high torque engines and sticky tires).

A good alternative is a t56 6spd out of the 90's camaros and firebirds.

Jake  

Call me lazy but I like an automatic  

check this link... http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-GM-F-Body/Chassis/

by the way.. when they were building the 3rd generation F bodies..  i got a tour of the van nuys camaro plant.. i noticed the additional structure in the TEE top rood sections.. (not the glass panels.. but the structural sheet metal ...   they did not just cut it away in the factory cars like the after market installations...

there are several brands of 3rd generation sub frame connectors that are already made.. ready to be installed..

i would also open the hood... take a look at the steering box while you have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth...   does the steering box wobble when you steer the car...   i think the people above also have a bar that mounts across the frame horns to transfer the reactive torque from the steering box to the other frame rail...  

Automatics have been outperforming stock manual transmissions for years.
Go to the track and see how many quick guys are running stock manuals. I am not talking about a puny 3-500HP but the cars that are really making some power. We ran a basically stock, except for the input shaft, glide in a 3000 lb car with big slicks. It lasted to about 800 flywheel HP. When we went beyond that it lunched the planetarys.
I don't see any stock manual handling that much power with slicks and I have not seen any at the track.  

I personaly believe the only reason most want a manual is so they can rev the engine and dump the clutch. I agree go the the track and see which cars are using autos and which are using manuals. I prefer autos myself  

Theres more to transmissions than dumping the clutch and driving fast in a straight line!

Manuals allow the driver to have better control of the car and how the engine performs/reacts to different conditions.

I never cared much for mashing the gas and seeing how fast I can go in a straight line or in a circle. I prefer racing that requires gear changes (more than once up the gear selection) and requires turning the steering wheel left AND right. This type of driving requires a manual transmission. The last thing you want is an slush-o-matic deciding to change gears while you're in the middle of a turn, and your tires are on the ragged edge of adhesion. That makes for a very very bad day.

Also, the strength of the transmission is only as good as the OEM specs. GM cheaped out on a lot of parts in the 80's and 90's. That is the reason the GM T5 sucks major balls.

And everyone knows that the only reason why some guys drag race instead of drive road course is because they don't know how to shift, use the brakes, and steering wheel at the same time!

Jake  

Jake has apoint but my experience has been the HEY YA'LL WATCH THIS attitude of knuckleheads!  

Yep I've seen those same type of numbnuts do neutral drops with 700r4's and *** cuz the trans doesn't last!

Jake  

I cant fuss because I like taking their money to fix their rides. Its all part of the cycle