help

Ok so im tryn to build my first chevy 350 i need to see if my parts list adds up to somethen worth while if i could get some advice? Here it is.  Pro Action Cast Iron,  64cc Chamber, 200cc Intake Runner with 2.20 intake and 1.94 exhast vales from RHS. COMP CAMS 12-212-2 CAM,Summit stage two intake,1.5 roller rockers,summit flat top hypertech pistons,profrom stock length push rods,and guide plates. I was thinkn bout boring the block 60 over along with flow tech shorty headers. along with a eldelbrock 650 carb and a .o51 head gasket. I'm also thinkn bout a 100 shot of nitrous oxide if the parts would handle it even if theyd make power. I need to know where to go with this and what to do and if the parts i have chosen are going to make any power. i am hoping to keep it running on 93 octane. Its for a 96 s10. Any help would be greatly accepted. Thank you.  

There is a correction there, you don't have 2.20-inch intake valves.

Why the cheapo summit parts? I suggest spending a couple extra bucks and at least running speed pro hyperutectic pistons and an Edelbrock Performer-series intake manifold.

Don't bore a 350 .060" over unless it absolutely needs it. You may have one rebuild, but possibly none, after a .060" overbore.

Stay away from a .051" gasket. That will make your piston-to-head clearance over .070", and that is bad all around. You could gain 20-30 horsepower hear by using a steel-shim head gasket.

With a thick composition gasket, such as what you listed here, your static compression will be around 9.5:1. By using a steel-shim gasket you could raise to about 10.25:1. This is fairly high for pump gas compression, but probably doable with aftermarket cylinder heads and a good quench. This added compression will translate into about a 2.5% gain. Also you will see a 10-15 horsepower gain from tightening the piston-to-head clearance that amount.  

ya 2.20 1.94 valves would not fit a 350.like gib said get some speed pros i have them and they are still pretty cheap if you wanna run that 10.2 comp ratio spend a few extra bucks on some aluminum heads it will give you less worry about detonation  

I think he meant 2.02 intakes.
By all means get the better pistons if you are going to run Juice. Go forged if you have the cash as they will be much better suited for Nitrous.  

im sure he meant 2.02 i didnt even see that about the nos hell if it was me for nos i would have to go with forged which are way more expensive  

ok thank you guys so far this more info then i really have been given thought this process. and yes i did mean 2.02 intake valves. as far as pistons go what type of forged piston? and connecting rods will those be a issue?  

if you decide to use nitrous i would have the whole bottom end forged.what are you using the motor for.if its just a street motor you can make plenty of power cheaper without the nitrous.this way you could get some decent rods,hypers,and a steel 3.75 crank and make an easy 450hp 500tq which will scoot that s-10 around no prob.thats about the power i have in my chevelle and itll throw ya back in your seat  

It all depends on what you plan on doing. If it is strictly a street cruiser and will never see the track you really don't need much.
If you are going to bracket race you just need a consistent car not a fast one.
If it is going to be a weekend warrior, or a test and tune top dog, you may want to upgrade. 400HP at the track is a weenie car. Some of my cars made more than that on 2 cylinders and I still wanted more power.  

ya but on the street it aint bad.i would like a 550hp 650tq bbc but until i start making more money that is going to be impossible  

will i need to do any thing to run the 3.75 crank? as for pistons if i get the forged should i stick with flat tops or use a different style piston?  

with the crank youll just need to get the right journal size(aftermarket)if its a stock 400sbc crank youll have to get the journals turned down. some minor clearance work has to be done to the block but youll have it at the machine shop anyways so this is a minor cost.you will also have to grind down some of the rod bolts as they will hit the cam unless you run a small base circle cam.for the pistons i dont know much about those heads so i dont know.is a set of aftermarket heads possibly in your budget.also if the crank is internally balanced then you can use a nuetral balanced flexplated and harmonic balancer if it is externally balanced then you will need the wieghted flexplate and balancer  

i have a question concerning part of the last answer... why in a 400 small block with a 3.75" crank, do the rods not interfere with the cam, but on a 350 with a 3.75" crank, you have to run a small base circle cam, since the crank and cams are essentially placed in the same location to each other in each block? (i ask becuase i have a 400 small block i just built with 6" rods and stock 3.75" stroke crank with a normal sized cam) will i have interference issues  

im not sure i know a stock 400 has small 5.5 inch rods.you can run a normal cam on a 383 i do but a few of the rod bolt heads must be ground down.maybe youll have to do that on the 400 maybe not.we are talking about like hundredths of an inch here the 400 block could be a little differnt by hundredths of an inch and would look the same to the naked eye  

Factory 5.565" connecting rods are designed differently around the big end to accomodate the larger stroke.

Aftermarket capscrew rods are also a design that's highly beneficial to rod bolt to cam clearance.

You may or may not have interference issues, in a lot of cases each engine is different. If they are capscrew 6" rods you could very well be fine.  

ya listen to gib man he knows his ***