Electric Fuel pump question

Do i need a relay for my electric fuel pump?
I have an 88 camaro that came stock with a tbi unit, which still has the factory relay on it. The factory relay is/was computer controlled and i dont know how to wire it up so it would work.
The relay has four wires on it:
--Black with white stripe(power, tested with a volt meter)
--Green with white stripe(i put power to this wire and it would close the relay  
    but not switch on the pump.
--Orange wire(power)  
--Tan with white stripe( this one goes directly to the pump and is the one i
    hard wired to a switch.

Will i have issues if i dont use a relay? I am using the stock return line so it should be circulating the fuel through the system. I just want to make sure i dont ruin my electric pump. They are a pain to change.

Thanks for the advice.  

hmm...  

the fuel pump relay on most cars was also used along with a 2 wire or 3 wire oil pressure switch...


the 3 wire oil pressure switches had 2 circuits in it...    a single terminal that without pressure connects that terminal to ground...

the other pair... are not connected to ground at any time..   they are open without pressure applied... but the contacts close when pressure is applied...

this allows the system to run as long as there is oil pressure..  it reduces the amount of load on the fuel pump relay...
hope this helps...

you can run the pump on a switch..  the factory did it as the pump has to come on for 2 seconds to build pressure for starting... if the purple wire from the ignition switch does not send it signal to the ecm within 2 seconds.. the fuel pump relay will be shut off by the ecm...

when you start cranking the motor... the ecm turns on the fuel pump relay..

it varies on the system. but many drop have the oil pressure switch in parallel with the relay ...

there is also on some models... a fuel pump voltage feedback circuit...  so the ecm monitors the voltage going to the fuel pump...  and it can set a trouble code also on some models...



everybody should know.. that testing with a normal test light to see if the ecm is pulling the fuel pump relay circuit to ground will usually blow out the power transistor in the ecm...  the relay takes less than an amp...   some test lights are more than an amp...   putting this load on the ecm circuit... blows it out silently... it just does not work any more...

extended cranking times as the fuel pump only starts pumping when oil pressure comes up is the result..  

I left out or deleted some info i intended to leave in my original post. The car now has a carbed 350 in it with the computer removed. The car originally had an oil pressure switch. I couldnt mount it on the new engine cause that has a pipe plug in it and i cant get the plug out. So if i crossed some of the wires on the pressure sending unit harness the relay should work?  

yes... you can jump the terminals at the old oil pressure connector...

here is the wiring diagram that you will need...

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/09/91/7b/large/0900c1528009917b.gif

it looks like the tan and white  wire runs the intank electric fuel pump...   and an orange wire will have switched power...

center top of the diagram... the tan and white wire also runs several other items.... you should be able to pull the computer harness out of the firewall completely and jump the wire under the dash...  

I noticed on the relay there is a red wire as well. I hooked a switched source of power to that and it works through the relay. The relay doesnt close or anything to prime the system, but the pump has power when i turn the key and flip the switch. I just want to make sure that im not going to create issues by doing this.