Timing Puzzled

Long story short. Recently bought a project car off E bay. 69 Camaro, who's previous owner was building for a street / strip car. Engine was built by a professional  builder --- 350 bored 60 over -- Lunati cam .550 lift with 234 duration -- gear driven cam setup -- etc etc
My problem comes with the timing -- I was the first to fire it up, and I set the timing at 10 degrees BTDC and barely kept it running -- I kept advancing the timing till it ran strong. It ended up at 28 degree static timing at 1000 RPM and 58 degrees when all in. Knowing that this WAY over the usual amount I figured the dampener must have slipped (fluidAMPR) but when I changed the heads, I checked TDC and the dampener and pointer were spot on. Running on pump gas with 10.8 to 1 compression. never heard a knock and plugs look fine (I'm not the best plug reader) tan with a little soot. Is this possible to run 58 degrees with no damage? Could the cam timing force it to require so much timing. I've never had the timing cover off. The dang thing runs like a banshee between 4000 and 7000 where it was intended to run but am I doing it harm. It has 6000 hard street miles on it. Any thoughts? Thanks  

I had the exact same problem with my motor. I had too much carb. I went from a 1050 to a 850 and my timing went from 30 degrees to 14 degrees base timing. I have a thread on hear named TIMING ISSUES, check it out. Maybe it will help.  

Thanks for the replay, However I'm not sure this will apply to my application. I went from an 850 to 650 seeing how I'm running more street than all out strip but I will check out your post and Thanks again for your response.  

oyu mentioned the motor being built by a professional, it could be the cam timing is advanced. Combine that with the car's intent to be a street/strip combo (which are usually more heavy on the strip side) 28 degrees could be correct, especially if the plugs look fine and you're not getting any detonation.

Contact the engine builder and ask him about the motor. Tell him the timing and see what he says.  

Thanks 55 guy, Getting a hold of the builder would be difficult to say the least. I'm in Wisconsin and the builder is in Utah and since my last computer crash I lost the e address of the seller. But I think you answered my question.

NOW, can someone tell me how can cam timing have such a profound effect on ignition timing and can 58 degrees (all in) be realistic?
Thanks!  

With vaccum hooked up, 58 deg. is almost certain. All that vac. adv, disappears when you floor it, so it's not relevant when the motor is "under the gun". The vac adv adds all that timing at part throttle to give the cruise (lean mixture) a head start in combustion. You should try a curve kit with adj. vaccum. Follow the steps, you might be very pleased with the results.  

Thanks JW454
I should have listed the timing curve in my first post.
With the vacuum disconnected.
Static 28 degrees at 1000 rpm with 7 inch vacuum(ROUGH IDLE)
+ 12 MECH @ 2000 for a total of 40 degrees 15 inch vac
+ 25 MECH @ 3000 for a total of 53 degrees 18 inch vac
+ 27 MECH @ 3300 (all in) for a total of 55 degrees with 20 inch vacuum.

I limit the vacuum can to 3 degrees advance (or retard when vacuum drops below 7 inches) I find that when I drop the timing more than 3 degrees it doesn't seem to pull as hard.

This has baffled me since I first fired it up last summer. Why does it needed so much timing? At first thought, I figured the dampener slipped but I proved to myself it didn't, and then after doing some investigation a number of articles saying 36 to 38 max timing is all a small block needs (and in my past experiences this has been true) The only thing I'm unaware of is, which exactly Lunati cam is in it and how it was timed.
And that leaves me puzzled --- does the cam and the cam timing dictate the ignition timing?
Sorry the the long essay but let me THANKS.

I always wanted to post this question but my ego wouldn't let me, having been hot rodding sbc for 30+ years, I thought I had seen it all and had all the answers.

And as a newbie to posting, I just want to say Thanks for all the help!  

Glad to help if I can. I try to ignore actual numbers with the timing game. The bottom line is to set the curve both mechanicaly and with vaccum to the point where it makes best power without pinging. The only # to concern yourself with is the base timing. Once you get it to accelerate (full throttle) cleanly with vaccum disconnected and no ping, then move on to adj vac. for best part throttle driving. After it's dialed in, you can record your figures for a future reference. A cam, exhaust, intake and anything else that helps the engine breath better can call for more ign. timing. By the way, anyone who does this all the time is kidding themselves if they think they have seen it all.  JW.  

Thanks JW454, wise words!
I changed the jets down one size cause the plugs were a little sooty and the on board oxygen sensor shows it running rich during cruising speeds. I had the car out today and tried different curves and ended up back my old standby of 28 static and 58 all in. Problem is with all the noise this thing makes (hooker headers - flow master 40 and 3 inch pipes) I'm not sure I could hear it ping if it did. Anyhow I'm getting over my number hang up and pushing the timing up even higher to see if I can squeeze a little more out of her.
Thanks for your help!
Any place in here to post a picture?  

Im not shure how to post a picture. How do you like the sound of the 40 series with 3 inch pipes? I have 50 series Delta Flow with 2.5 pipes on my truck, and dont care for the sound. It may be the crossover pipe cancelling out the lows.  

Sorry it took so long (damn computer!)
MUSIC TO MY EARS!
If your looking to talk on your cell phone or listen to soft music I wouldn't recommend it. But if your looking for that low, chest pounding rumble it cant be beat! I've gotten complements form all sorts of people, even a cop that I parked next to at a gas station. Of course he didn't hear the thing at WOT. The only draw back I can think is when I'm out testing the timing and romping on it, the whole damn neighborhood knows it. I don't have a cross over pipe and don't think I'll be adding one, I wouldn't want to risk losing that sound. Nothing better than sitting behind this thing at idle listing to that lumpy cam. Put in a little race gas for fragrance and I'm in heaven!  

i have timing issues as well. bought a 70 chevelle with a mystery 396. has a isky cam with 542 lift and 221 duration .050 lift. i am at 3600 elevation in the verde valley of arizona. vacum is about 13 inches when timed by ear and idle set at 1000. on the timing gun i get 43 degrees at idle and 78 degrees at 2500 rpm. everyone i have spoke to says it should not run. it is running and comes alive at 2000 rpm, but seems like a dog under that.does any one know how much torque and horsepower you loose at this elevation. does anyone know how to get this thing time and tuned. i dont have hair so i cant pull that out, so i am really confused, and i am certainly no genius. any help would be appreciated!  

is your balancer off ??  

i checked it in my garage at or close to btdc aand it looked close. it has frustrated me so much i took it to a shop to see if indeed the balancer is off. those numbers really scare me. i also have an accel breakerless ignition module in an original style distributor. do not know if that could cause a problem. any thoughts sure are appreciated. this is a very small town in the high desert, it is hard to find knowledgeable chevy guys. mostly jeeps and die hard ford guys. just trying to struggle through. i will know what the shop thinks this weekend.