|
|
Item Posts
Sort Order
|
|
|
new seals,still smokes
|
biscuit
New User
| Posts: 1
| Joined: 09/04
Posted: 09/14/04 01:03 PM
|
|
i have a 1982 ford mercury zephyr,3.3L 200,6cly.1b,vintage B.i just had the umbrella seals changed and it still smoked on take offs.i was told that the oil is moving the seals when i stop and leaking in.my question is will pc seals work on this car underneath the umbrella seals?i"ve heard that the pc"s are teflon and have o-rings to hold them on.this car has been at the mechanics shop for a month and he"s stumped,(also slow in getting things going) thanks
|
|
|
|
gearman
Enthusiast
| Posts: 270
| Joined: 08/04
Posted: 09/15/04 05:12 AM
|
|
I had 2 81 mustangs with the 200s.One had tons uf carbon under the valve cover when i got it. It took about two hours and a shop vac to suck it all out. What I am trying to say is the best seals in the world wont seal if the oil is staying on top of everything instead of reaturning to the pan.Also there is a right way and a weong way to put the seals on. I have done it wrong and made a engine that never smoked before start. After changing the seals agin and putting them on after the spring and rotator are compressed past rhe notch they worked great.The first time I put them on and compressed the spring and cap and put the retainers in and took the compressor off. It destroys them.Remeber I was not born with this knowledge.I learned from my mistakes.Tried to tell this to a 18 year mechanic at the best garage around here. He is verry good.He takes on all the jobs that everyone else passes up on. And is always done way before the flat rate book says it should take. HE THINKS I AM NUTS WHEN I TALK TO HIM ABOUT THIS> so I dont argue the issue.Also there are cheap rubber seals and there is something called viton rubber. The cheap ones cant take as much heat as the better ones.Fel pro makes the viton ones I think.
|
|
|
|
oldBogie
Guru
| Posts: 1195
| Joined: 08/03
Posted: 09/15/04 10:33 AM
|
|
A FoMoCo question in a Chevy forum?
Anyway an 82 engine probably has a lot of miles on it. Lots of miles equals lots of wear. Chances are pretty good that the valve guides and stems are on the high side of acceptable tolerances, therefore, new seals, umbrella or "O"ring will not manage the problem. The only real solution is to pull the head and do a decent valve job that includes either boring the guides and using new valves with oversize stems, or installing guide inserts of bronze alloy or cast iron. In the latter case measurement of the valve stems will determine if replacement of the valve is required. Then put it together with new seals.
Bogie
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|