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Coolant leaking from tailpipe Help pls!

  
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Coolant leaking from tailpipe Help pls!

 
camaro73 camaro73
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 07/04
Posted: 07/13/04
09:15 AM

I am pretty sure this is severe but would like to know where it is coming from. I jus got my 1973 Chevy Camaro on the road from a full restoration The block is a 4 bolt main 350 Chevy SB Carburetored. I had  totally worked over EVERYTHING on this motor everything  is new on this motor except the Heads and the block itself. When I first got the motor running 2 studs backed out of the heads and it threw a pushrod and 2 of my rocker arms were destroyed luckily the pushrod was jus laying underneath the intake and didnt fall down into the crankcase I was not happy with the guy that assembled my heads So I had the heads Reworked and put in ARP locking studs and guiding plates from the same guy that built my motor. I took it to get the front end aligned and get everything checked out It failed a pressure cooling system test and a block test failed imediately.  I jus want to know if its in the heads or the block. My guess is the heads are cracked but I dont know. I don't think coolant was gettin in the oil cause I checked the dipstick and didnt see any traces of water but I could be wrong I havent drained the oil yet. Im jus wandering what I should do I worked so hard to get this car on the road and now its crippled and I need some advice on where to go from here. If you need more info on my problem please ask and ill reply as swiftly as I can. my e-mail address is camaro73@adelphia.net or my AIM is SCH411 If you want pictures or anything any help would be gratly Appreciated! thanks everyone!  

oldbogie oldbogie
Guru | Posts: 1195 | Joined: 08/03
Posted: 07/13/04
11:16 AM

Obviously it's leaking either into a cylinder(s) or has a crack in an port, most likely an exhaust. Sounds like you need a different engine assembler if you're not going to do this yourself.


You're going to have to take the heads off and hunt for the source of the leak. This could be a gasket problem; head gaskets or intake could be leaking. Several reasons for this that range from warped heads or block to improper/inadaquate bolt torque, or the intake may be warped, head or manifold, or have bolt torque, or gasket registration problems. Check to see if this set up places cooling water around the base of the carb, which can be a leakage source.


Cracks can be in the block, heads, intake manifold. You sight that a couple rocker studs pulled out, that's a good area to start looking for problems. Unless you went to a big cam and high spring pressures this shouldn't happen. They may have pulled out as the result of a crack, or caused a crack when they came out. Milling these heads can promote warpage or result in enough flex to where a gasket cannot hold a seal. Overboring the block can result in insufficient cylinder wall thickness that leads to flexing of the cylinder wall which may also crack especially toward the head deck region or at the base with the crankcase.


These post 1968/69 engines are really crack prone, especially the heads. The castings are thin to start with and become unstable if much milling has been done. A through magna-flux, visual, and pressure inspections are required primarily for the heads but also the block and intake, this needs to be done prior to a rebuild insure that the castings are sound.


Bogie

 

91 Caprice 91 Caprice
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 08/04
Posted: 08/09/04
09:59 PM

What may have happened is when the intake manifold was taken off there are two coolant plugs covering the two rear ports one of these plugs may have possibly not been place back in the port  this is probably far fetched but my answer this will also turn you oil milky  

gearman gearman
Enthusiast | Posts: 270 | Joined: 08/04
Posted: 08/30/04
09:29 AM

Have you ever used anything on head bolts for fear they go into the watter jacket? I used to use permetex # 2. I look back on this now and think that was stupid because of the way it must have effected the torque reading on the wrench.But i never had one fail.They were all 305s that i just put 184 intake valve heads from g engines on h code engines not a high dollar buildup with studs etc.  

oldbogie oldbogie
Guru | Posts: 1195 | Joined: 08/03
Posted: 08/30/04
09:58 AM

I haven't used Permatex on bolts going through to the water jacket but I don't see why that would (n't) work. Yes it might mess torque readings, but Chevy bolts come with a Teflon coating and the manual specifies the use of Teflon plumbers tape or teflon based plumbers paste. So the factory torque ratings are based upon having something that provides lubrication and sealage on the bolts.


bogie


I did an edit found that I used "would" where it should have read "wouldn't); see " (n't)  as added. Sorry for any confusion this created.


Note the teflon coating on factory head bolts is why it is not recommented that they be cleaned with a die or wire brush as this will remove the coating. However, taking your shiney clean bolt and wraping the threads in teflon plumbers tape or paste will restore it to usefullness.





Edited 9/3/2004 11:38 am by oldBogie  

gearman gearman
Enthusiast | Posts: 270 | Joined: 08/04
Posted: 09/01/04
05:17 PM

I wonder what castings he has this book i have shows some light castings and says not to use them. Was his engine out of a 1 ton that pulled 10 thousand pounds uo hill on a 100degree day?  

kawasa kawasa
New User | Posts: 11 | Joined: 10/10
Posted: 10/14/10
07:45 PM

White smoke coming out the tail pipe usually means there is coolant leaking inside the combustion chamber inside the engine or there is automatic transmission fluid leaking inside the combustion chamber. The first thing to check would be the radiator low on coolant? If so, you get a cooling system pressure test to determine if there is an internal coolant leak in your engine. Blown head gaskets are the first thing that comes to mind here and this pressure test should reveal this to you.  

WRIGHTRACING WRIGHTRACING
Enthusiast | Posts: 437 | Joined: 03/10
Posted: 10/14/10
08:12 PM

I'm sure the motor done come apart after 6 yearsSmile  
WRIGHTRACING


www.outlawracing.com
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www.ndrra.com

kawasa kawasa
New User | Posts: 11 | Joined: 10/10
Posted: 10/14/10
09:06 PM

Yup, your right. Just for future reference though Smile  

skyeking skyeking
Addict | Posts: 2738 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 10/15/10
05:58 PM

Hi there,
 What are the spark plugs showing?..You may have a problem valve
 seat or shot head gasket..  
skyeking

Dave632 Dave632
Addict | Posts: 2225 | Joined: 07/08
Posted: 10/15/10
07:02 PM

When I read things like this it reminds me of why I build my own stuff.
There are some out there that will take advantage or just don't know what they are doing and in most cases it is the latter.
Pull this motor apart, have the heads pressure checked, look at the head and intake gasket for possible leaks and if that fails have your block checked for cracks.
It is OK to use used stuff but it must be thoroughly checked before hand.  
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Skylark Skylark
Guru | Posts: 1481 | Joined: 02/10
Posted: 10/16/10
06:32 AM

guys the ricer dug up a 6 year old thread.  

Pontiacman2 Pontiacman2
Moderator | Posts: 8956 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 10/16/10
06:34 AM

Yep.  
Pontiacman2
Pontiacman2

Professional Hi-performance engine builder

redneckjoe69 redneckjoe69
Addict | Posts: 2337 | Joined: 03/10
Posted: 10/16/10
09:08 AM

they say," percistence is the key to success."     Smile  

1993_Lx 1993_Lx
Guru | Posts: 1851 | Joined: 12/09
Posted: 10/16/10
10:03 AM

We should e-mail the guy and ask him how it turned out Grin  
Most call me Lx, but I was born Dakota