Hey thanks evereyone for the info that you all gave me about the carb adapter.come to find out the double spacer ideal didnt work like i thought it would have. it ran very poor so i droped back down to the single plate.now i have another question for you guy's if you dont mind.my next problem is this like i said earlier the engine came out of an 87 suburban it was originaly an t.b.i engine the problem im running into now is the altenator. i have to run the altenator that came with the motor because its an serpentine setup im having problems trying to get the altenator to charge the battery i had the altenator tested at the local parts store and it came out good. so far all that i have hooked up is the hot wire running from the battery to the altenator there is an plug thats on my altenator that i cut from the wire harness that plugs into the altenator but i dont know where to hook it up at on my 1980's car could someone please help thanks alot P.S could someone tell me the compression that i am running in my little motor im taking an guess i say its around 9.5:1 pushing about 230 h/p and about 300 lbst/q i might be wrong could somebody tell if this sounds right the suburban was an 2 wheel drive 1987 thanks again!!!!!!!!

Go here to ID your alternator and wire accordingly.

http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/GmAlternatorIdentification.htm

An 87 engine out of a Suburban was a pretty weak motor with cam timing of about 180 degree intake and 190 exhaust with less than .4 inch lift. It uses large chamber swirl port heads of about 76ccs a thick head gasket and about 20 ccs in the piston dish. Rated compression is 8.5 to 8.7, the reality is probably closer to 7.8 to 8. The engine was factory rated at 207 hp, trust me this was on a good day, a really good day.

The good news is this thing really responds to more cam and a head change. Simply add 10 dergrees cam duration and lift to about .41-.43 inch and a set of Vortecs heads will find an easy 80-100 horsepower.

Bogie

Quick question do you mean a cam with an 410 to 430max lift? also taking an wild guess how much power would i  make with just the vortech heads alone because im not ready to go into the motor yet.i already have hedman headers an holley aluminum intake and an 750 quadrajet? their breathing out of a pair of flowmasters 40 series as of now i only have the stock heads on the motor now. thanks again.

i run a serpintine cs 130 alt on my small block in a 70 camaro.

you need the pigtail off of this type alt from the donor car or a replacement from a parts house ( autozone or somewhere like that.)

 cs130 alt needs power to the exciter wire, so connect it to the main output stud on the rear of the alt, and, run a 10 gauge wire from the main output to the positive battery terminal. if you are unsure which wire to connect let me know i'll make a clearer diagram for you. as far as a v belt goes it works fine for me. i switched pulleys, checked alignment and was fine . one thing to consider though, the factory designed the alt to turn in a reverse direction and on a v belt mount, the alt internal cooling fan is turned the wrong direction. i put very limited street time on my car so i get away with my app.

( 355, 13:1, solid roller, aluminum heads, single plane, big holley, stall, 4.56:1 rear...)

good luck ,like i said, if you need more info on getting your alt to charge just say so,  

Yeah, a mild cam with about 200 to 210 degrees of duration at .050 inch lift and a max lift from .41 to .43 inch will add about 30 - 40 horses from the original truck cam. Add to that, a set of Vortec style heads, these could be DARTS or Edlebrock which can be had in a configuration that lets you keep your current intake, these style port and combustion chamber will improve power by 40 or more against the TBI Swirl Port heads. The power improvement from the heads just stands there independent of anything else you do. GMPP has also released a pair of new Vortecs that allow use of the older intake bolt pattern, but they're a lot more expensive than the original Vortec head.

Anyway between a little more cam and a set of modern heads, you can bring a 350 up to around 300 HP and still have a very streetable engine that doesn't require a high stall converter or stiff gears or lopes so hard at idle you think it's going to tear the mounts apart.

Bogie