I have a 400 SB that is 30 over,and a 4bolt main.Can this block be made into a 427 cu.in with and  after market stroker kit. All the articals I've read use and after market block. I know the block would have to be clearanced, can it be done. Your magazine is my Chevy Bible. Thanks.  

highly unlikely, you would need a rare very thick casting bore to go .060 along with with a sonic checker to make sure it's safe to bore that much and also some clearancing of the block and a small base circle cam is going to defitnely required to handle the extra eighth of a inch of stroke, because three and three quarter inch stroke 400's almost always require a small base circle cam if the cam is very healthy in the lift department and also rod bolts on factory 400 rods barely clear the pan rails from the factory without the extra .125 of stroke to handle

Gibs,thanks for your help in this matter, I gest a 406 is all I will get safely. Thanks again John DeScala.  

Yes, You can build this using a production block.  A 4" stroke and .030" over bore yields a 434. I used steel caps, and filled the block to the bottom of the freeze plugs. Careful notching of the block is required. I notched the pan rails, and the bottoms of the cylinder walls for clearance. A stroker pan and small base circle cam are required. Cap screw rods are a must, and I clearanced those as well. For any small block stroker engine, camshaft to connecting rod clearance must be checked for cylinders 1,2,5,6. This is not a job for the novice.

My block held up well at 670 HP / 560 TQ. without spray. After I added NOS, I cracked the deck between the upper steam holes and the adjacent head bolt holes. I was able to run 8.60's in street trim thru full exhaust @ 3175 lbs. with driver. I would recommend an aftermarket block for NOS. I did this with conventional 23 degree heads from AFR (220 CNC) and 4150 (950 HP) carb. 

What rod length did you use?  

6" Oliver billet  

I didn't think a 4.00" crank and 6.00" rods would fit very well into a standard 9.025" block.  

With 0.00" piston/deck height, subtract 2" for the crank throw and 6" for rod...  that leaves 1.025" available for the piston/pin compression height.  A sbc pin is 0.927" in diameter.  Divide that by 2 = 0.464, which means the top of the pin will be 0.561" from the deck or the piston top.  I guess it's doable with some fancy pistons where the wristpin intersects the ring grooves.  Trick stuff.

This might interest you, saw it on ebay today.  It's a 416 and the price is too good to be true, be careful..

Bob

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4519440961&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Not trick at all. Off the shelf piston whoch is supplied with a support rail for the oil ring. No big deal. The tricky part is the block and cylinder notching required. I did it myself with a hand held die grinder. I don't recommend it for the novice. How about 500 ft. lbs. of torque starting under 300 RPM? Big block performance at the weight of a small block.

Chris