I want to try  to setup the advance curve in a HEI distributor with a 6AL box that is on the engine in a car. All I have to work with is a advance curve kit for a HEI, a timing lite, and a degreed harmonic balancer. I do not know what the advance should be set at. I have all the specs and vehicle application If some one could point me in the right direction.

1st the car will be a drag car only and is run on race gas.

Its a 3600 lbs 3rd gen camaro, 5speed trans and a Lite weight clutch flywheel assembly(17lbs.). 3.90 rear end gears. 26 inch drag radials.

The engine specs : 10.5-1 comp forged pistons, 6 inch rods, AFR 195cc comp ported heads, Vic Jr. intake, 750 holley(Mech. Sec.), The cam is a solid flat tappet .548/.564 lift, 261*/266* dur@.050 lift, 106 LC.  The RPM range for the cam is 3600-7000 rpm. The exhaust is 1-3/4 shorty headers with a 3-1/2 inch sgl. exhaust  flowmaster 2 chamber race muffler. Any help or guidence will be appreciated. Thanks

anyone? Old Brogie?  

I'll get back to you, I forgot to work on this after seeing it.

Bogie

If were an automatic with a stall convertor around 3600 or higher, I'd suggest ditching the advance kit and locking the distributor down; no advance.  The thought process behind this is simple,  by 3600 rpm most curve kits are already fully advanced. If the timing is locked wherever you set it, you have eliminated the possibility for inconsistency due to weights sticking which could/would change your timing from one pass from the next.

I  have no timing advance on my car, but it's got an automatic trans with a 5200 convertor.  As long as the starter can start it with the timing locked down,  then why have any advance? Especially if it's not a street car where fuel mileage is a concern... no?

I'm not sure if that would be best for a manual transmission, though.

give some more info on locking the advance down. i've never heard of that. really is a good idea.  

First, let me say that I didn't intend to step on the wise Oldbogie's toes, just thought I'd throw my two cents in.

To lock down an HEI distributor,  remove it from the car, remove the cap, rotor, weights, springs, and vacuum advance mechanism.  Then drill and tap a small hole into the two pieces of metal that move to allow for advance.  Then use a small screw with loc-tite to fasten the two together.  No more advance.  Be sure that all metal particles are cleaned out before re-installation, as even a small piece between the magnets could/will prevent it from working.

*note* I can't recall which year(s), but there is an HEI distributor that was used on some (late 80's?) cars which had no advance mechanism (locked down from the factory), as the computer controlled the timing curve.