Ok imma make it short, i have a 1999 chevy suburban with the vortec 5.7  , i want to throw a cam in it. i have all the tools to do the job and enough knowledge,  can i just get a cam and throw it in? if so then wut should i get, wut site? second i want it to loop or rump ya know i have decent exhaust and want the killer sound and power, if its not that simple is there like a kit i can get for everything i need like the cam shaft, rods, rollers and valves if needed?? any help would be greatly appreciated thanks...  

You have the necessary knowledge to do a cam swap but your problem is finding something with a lot of "romp" and "lope?" Sounds like you're a little short on the knowledge side of it to me...

Why would you want to replace the valves and the connecting rods?  

i meant push rods, i didnt know.. and i just wanna know if there is a cam kit thats right for my stock motor, i dont have alot of money but want a nice sound and well the poteintal hp gain. but i just wanna know wut cam would be ideal for me and wut springs for the lift i get, gasket kit, lube. wut else i need for the cam and spring swap?  

You're going to need to know what cam you're going to be using so you can figure out what springs you're using so you can determine if you can change them in-frame...

You will need to get a cam specifically for your late-model vortec engine that won't be too large that it will push the computer near its stock ECM parameters - unless you will be reflashing your ECM. More than likely this means increasing the duration only 5-8° and keeping the cam on a very wide lobe separation angle. A roller cam is about $300-$350 alone, valve springs & retainers are usually another $150-$200, you may be able to re-use your factory lifters if they're not worn significantly and if the cam you will be using isn't too aggressive. If you have to buy lifters they may be $200-$250+.

If you can find it, a kit that includes most of everything you need will probably be $800-$1000.  

thanks any idea on what cam kit i should go with?? for that sound of where my truck sounds likes is gonna die when its cold. im getting a program for my laptop to reconfigure the stock computer  

At least you're starting to realize what a nasty, lopey, idle is...

It's a misfire. The combustion within the cylinder is terrible from a combination of very little "trapped" charge, contamination from burnt exhaust gases, and poor fuel quality entering the cylinder.

You will more than likely not achieve a really wild idle as it requires a lot of valve overlap. Overlap in returns reduces manifold vacuum drastically and manifold vacuum is a vital input for your truck's computer to run. If you change the manifold vacuum much at all from stock the voltage input to the computer changes and you have problems tuning this thing as everything will need to be changed. I don't know what your computer program is capable of, but you better find out before you throw a grand at a cam that's so large your truck is running like a dog.

Computer controlled vehicle cams are going to be around 260° max on 113-115° lobe separation angles. Some aftermarket engine management systems will allow you to tune for more camshaft but you're going to have to figure out the limits of your system if all you desire a poor idle and poor performance.