ive got a 350 with a .030 bore 10.5:1 flat tops stock crank an rods all balanced an squared an decked with a lunati .480/.480 292/292 cam (bracket master 2) 109 lobe sep. rpm intake holley 750 double pumper jetted down to a 650 what heads would make me the most hp here. sportsman 2 an iron eagles are the ones i have in mind... any suggestions are appriciated thanks  

Would you tell me how in the world you jetted 100 CFM out of your carb?

AFR, Trick Flow, and Dart would be my favorites. They all have suitable cylinder heads for your engine that would make comparable power to each other.  

im not a carb guy someone is rebuilding it an said they could make it great for my motor jettin it down like a 650 idk an i really dont care bout that situation cause i know its going to run good. but do you have any idea bout how much hp im going to be close too. 375??? maybe jus curious. guess all those heads are going to make close to same power an be a good match for my set up?? but what runners do yall reccomend 200cc?  

Your carburetor man obviously has no idea how a carburetor functions then because it's physically impossible to modify the fuel circuit and reduce airflow by 100 CFM.

In my opinion, a L/D% of less than .25:1 makes it a little difficult to make 1 horsepower per cubic inch. So maybe 350 horsepower may be a little closer, maybe the long duration of that cam may help the peak power slightly though...  

WELL OBVIOUSLY MY QUESTION WASNT WHETHER MY CARB MAN KNEW HOW A CARB FUNCTIONS OR NOT WAS IT??? SO THANKS FOR GOING OFF TOPIC TO TRY AN MAKE ME OR MY SO CALLED CARB MAN LOOK DUMB... HAD THAT BEEN MY QUESTION I PROBABLY WOULD HAVE LABELED THE THREAD DOES MY CARB MAN KNOW HOW A CARB FUNCTIONS??? AND LOOKING BACK IT ISNT LABELED THAT!!!!  

I am not going to let something that is completely and utterly wrong just slide by just because you don't care about it, are you usually so ignorant to the truth?

You still have a 750 CFM carb and I already gave you an idea what kind of cylinder heads to look at. 180-200cc port would probably be best, anything else you want me to tell you that you will probably ignore?  

for the streat i would go with 180-190cc afr heads.
for the strip you could go a little bigger if converter is matched  

Can't we all just get along?......I'm sure that 12BOLT meant that his carb man used stock sized jets from a 650 carb. Further, you can tell by the questions posed in this forum (and others) that most of those wanting help are (1.)inexperienced novices simply looking for guidance in the right direction or (2.)they want someone to tell them EXACTLY what pieces to slap together to guarantee the quickest car on the planet. In the first case, disregarding the basics and filling a response with a never-ending litany of specs might make the responder look knowledgeable, but it doesn't help the guy asking the question because it goes over his head. In the second case, it ain't going to happen.  

Well, if they want to know EXACTLY what to throw together and don't want to understand the concepts we're dealing with here then it won't bother me If I make them a little angry...

Why should it bother you?  

Oh GibTG! You notice how I respond to a post,I try to get to the point a.s.a.p.I'm a hands-on worked with tools since day one and I try to word it accordly.Give posters basic specs because that's what they want,no question in some areas it can get over my head on some of your replies.If I think I need to know more about your subject,I'll read up.Your sharp GigTG but don't overwhelm with to much information most don't want.Your knowledge is needed on here but only when they want more detail.I've read alot of your posts and see this pattern and I also have defended you,so lets keep helping new rodders.      WIEDER  

I usually try to keep things simple. I kept things simple in this thread but the original poster needed to learn a lesson...

Having average joe work on your carb doesn't guarantee a good running engine. Especially Joe who says "I'm going to jet your carb down to a 650 because 750 is really a little big," that approach is completely wrong! You need a general understanding of what's happening here. Thinking you're in the clear because someone else (who is misinformed) is doing it is ignorant.

Wieder, I appreciate you defending me but you must know I shouldn't be flamed for added details. You, and anyone else here, are free to tell me If I'm not being clear but being thorough is a good thing and if someone does not want to take the time to read a long post or the effort to absorb information that is there fault and not mine.

I really cannot figure out a reason why I post here so much but I'm sure I will continue to, If I'm wanted or not.  

You can bet that other people are soaking up what you and others are saying.So like you say,which makes sense they don't have to read.Because somebody that has the same problem is reading your reply and will gain from it.    WIEDER  

HAHA I've been reading you two for a while and find it funny. Props to both of you for knowlage and your help. But what exactly does "a L/D% of less than .25:1" mean??? is it LSA/durration? cause I did the math for the guys cam and i got .373, so i think im on the right track... But don't know. If so, can you elaborate on this subject and what type of cams can make 1, 1.25, 1.5 hp/ci.  

The "L/D%" is a ratio between the amount the valve is lifted and its diameter. It's very simple really, think of a 350 with 2" valve and a net lift of approximately .500" that is a L/D% of .25

You'll see that with most small block Chevys that you will need around a L/D% of .30 or higher to achieve 1.5 horsepower per cubic inch. 1.25 Hp/C.I.D. can probably be achieved with .26-.27 L/D%.  

I used to call a fellow autopaint employee "MightyMouse" about 5'6" bodybuilder type,now that's funny! Welcome aboard!   WIEDER