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can`t get motor to start  
bigmud44
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 02/08
Posted: 02/19/08
06:02 PM

Just bought 1980 camaro,had 250 six, replaced with crate 350. Don`t know must more, car was running when i picked it up, i can get it to fire once in awhile but won`t stay running? Taken carb. apart and cleaned, ok(it is getting fuel) took plugs out, they are wet. Turned engine over cannot see spark?
Question they used hot wire for the dist. from orignal dist. wire it has 12v on, when motor is turning over it drops to 8+volts) I thought that HEI used straight 12v. ANY HELP PLEASE?  


 
timmy05
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 02/08
Posted: 02/19/08
08:47 PM

I have had a LOT of problems with two major brands of plugs, even brand new. But I love Bosch, never had a problem. Others really like NSK. I fixed one again last week by taking out new plugs (wet) and putting in Bosch Platinums. I have done this about ten times to different trucks and cars.

The voltage drop may be normal while under a load?
Is it 12v when not cranking?  


 
55Guy
Enthusiast | Posts: 473 | Joined: 08/07
Posted: 02/21/08
08:53 AM

The problem here is not the plugs.

Somewhere in the swap, the power supply to the distributor has gotten screwed up. Check the ballast resistor between the power and the ignition (mounted on firewall), check the power supply to the coil, and the ignition module. Also pull the module and have it tested to make sure it's not bad.  


 
bobbyglez
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 02/08
Posted: 02/28/08
09:08 PM

Is the wire thick enough? Go to auto parts store and get ignition wire I think it is 8 gauge, Then wire it from distributor to and ignition fuse terminal. You probably are not getting enough juice if it is too thin.  


 
waynep712
User | Posts: 103 | Joined: 01/08
Posted: 02/28/08
10:05 PM

if he still has the problem... try a jumper wire directly off the battery to power the hei....

ive not seen it lately.. but in the past there was a starter solenoid that pulled way too much current... and it took all the power from the ignition switch...

while on the electrical front... pull the wiring harness from the bulkhead connector and examine the connectors for burning... it has a center bolt that holds it in place.... i have found these burned for the power feeds up from the starter....    i have also found the solenoid wiring melted to the tube that guides it to the starter...  this took again most of the power..       it is possable that the ign switch had burned contacts in it too...

check the grounds to the block and body to the (-)battery...

if the plugs are getting really wet .. you cleaned the carb... did you check the float levels.???? and verify that there is nothing in the needle and seat causing the fuel to overfill the bowl..... you did not say what kind of carb it is....

is the choke open???? propped open for testing...

and ............. i know that this is a really a longgggggggg shotttt.....   is the fuel line hooked to the proper fitting on the carb... not to a vacuum fitting...  i have found this at least a dozen times in 30 years... when too much fuel is happening...     what kind of carb is it??????/


waynep712.....  


 
he.v_rtft
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 02/08
Posted: 02/29/08
10:39 PM

hi
can anyone estimate how much horsepower/torque these parts on a 350 chevy can give;before i stuff them into the .030 block
1-600cfm holley man-choke vac sec.
2-edelbrock torker ii intake single plane (2500-6500)rpm
3-summit steel roller rockers 1.52
4-block hugger headers15/8".
5-trick flow track heat cam duration@.050=246/254--lift=.495/.510--3500-6700rpm.
6-crane cam valve spring 1.255 o.d. .060 clearance 0.490 lift.
7-silvolite hyperutechtic pistons 10.3 :1
8-summit racing digital ignition+blaster 2 coil.
9-the heads are stock 1.95 in valve--1.50 exh.valve poerted to match in manifold and headers.
many thanks . moon
 :  


 
clay_ermann
New User | Posts: 37 | Joined: 01/08
Posted: 03/01/08
06:53 AM

first off moon... the heads are one of the major components that produce the HP...with what you listed you might get about 30 more HP with the same TQ...the crank/connecting rods and pistons mostly determine the TQ... the stroke is the TQ  and with all of these parts being stock then you should have the same TQ but without replacing heads then you can count on low gains.  


 
Napalm
New User | Posts: 4 | Joined: 11/06
Posted: 03/01/08
10:41 AM

BigMud44
You need to have a straight 12 volts to your Dist.  That means at least at start up.  I don't think you have points in Dist, should be for that your HEI.  Someone mentioned making sure it is grounded, is a diffinent YES.  I have had problems burning up modules and found out that the ground was FUBAR or not there.  Also double check your aligment on Dist to your firing order.  Bring up number one cylinder and make sure that your rotor is pointing at about 5 0clock position looking at it from the front.  The power wire to Dist should be at least 14 to 12 gauge wire.  8 is really to big.  


 
48olds
User | Posts: 100 | Joined: 11/07
Posted: 03/05/08
01:44 PM

Napalm is telling you right.On everything  


 
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