Let me first start by introducing  myself. I go by the name of Tom and I guess you could say I’m an Old School dirt track racer which I have been out of for over fifteen years give or take a couple.

Do to a heartbreaking  failure of my 85 Camaro thanks to my wife’s just gas only and go policy. After three years being covered in my garage I would like to breath new life into her (My car that is a wife is easer to come by) I would like to make use of some of my parts on hand. Keep in mind that the rolling chassis will be wired by toggle and starter button with gages no other computer or idiot lights.

My short block is a 92 350 4/bolt +.60 flattop pistons
Heads #64cc 1,94's their in shop now being fitted with new seats and guides ported and polished  
Strip Dominator intake
3310 Carb
Mallory distributor
Two choice of gears 373, 410

I’m undecided on the Cam size to use and weather to use Mech. Or Hyd. CamII fuel is no problem. Looking for complete cam kit (suggestions) It will be run on strip/street My bosses Son has a rice burner I’m tired of hearing about

Is it possible to drill a high-rise intake and thread for Vacuum (brakes) and use a can?
Stall size suggestions?

I thank anyone that can find the time to offer suggestions
Tom  

First, good luck with your project, Tom. Due to the recent changes in motor oil, if I were to build an engine today I would be compelled to use a roller cam. No doubt the cost is higher but the performance and lubrication issues would make it worth it.  

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It depends on your definition of street/strip. Lots of cars on the street that I'd say are marginally streetable.
To build the best combination possible I'd suggest maximizing your static compression ratio (based on your current selection of components) and camshaft relationship to achieve a desireable dynamic compression ratio.
Properly spec'd dymnamic compression will build the most torque and if you intend to use racing gas, then the potential can go up quite  bit. There are a few websites dedicated to calculating dynamic compression which allow you to move around cam timing events. That will let you build a theoretical engine around the parts you have and target the parts you need.  

if you wanna spend little$$$ just go with a mechanical cam.. i used a crane saturday night  special cam kit mech. and hyd. both kits are nice  . they come with cam lifters and most important valve springs matched to the cam...some even have retainers if you have the money everyone these days says a hyd. roller or mech.roller is the way to go  ...no break in required  alos is gonna be a daily driver or weekend rice killer?  

Thanks everyone for the offered advice. I find myself leaning more toward the Mech cam. If I recall correctly it had a quicker throttle response  and less worries about floating a lifter. Im thinking along the lines of a grind that would give a decent hole shot and hold well to 5500 or so such as a 1/4 race cam. I have found I made a mistake on the heads so far, the reason being I have almost as much money in them now as it would have cost me for a new set but to late to back out now

Anyone know of a good cleaner for a alum. Intake and M/T valve covers? Maybe some sort of an acid wash?

In an earlier post someone brought up oil Years ago on the circle track we use to have an issue with our oil breaking down and what we called foaming on us I would be interested in hearing what types of oil hold up well now days  

The current issue with motor oil is the removal of the additives. With the manufacturers going to all roller and the additives being harmful to O2 sensors and converters, they have been removed. Older engines with flat tappet cams benefit from these additives. Up until recently, you could use a diesel spec oil which still had the additives. The tradeoff being the high detergent in those brands. Now the diesel oils have had it removed as well. I have switched to a motor oil made by Lubriplate that still has the additives. Another option is to add STP in the red bottle to your brand, this will give you some of the additives. I have read that Castrol will be making a synthetic with the additives, marked "for classic cars" but don't think it's here yet. That roller cam looks better and better.  

hope u have the extra parts for that mech. lif cam. crane sells cool nutsw/locks, for mech. cams. good parts wished i could have afforted them in 72 on my 63 ss impala,pulled a roller stud and broke the boss on a set of d-hump fuelie heads on a missed shift at the street drags one saturday nigth x#!!@#. if u have parts store close that sells parts for deisel truckers,(NAPA)ask for fueltank and wheel wash,,IE careful its acid wash,,works great  

i noticed one of your replys suggested running a roller cam due to oil issuses ie, lack of additives for letting the lifters spin. while i would not run any thing but a roller i have had excellent results building friends flat tappet engines using a g.m. adative for breaking in the cam and lifters and using shell rotello diesel oil it contains the neaded additives  

OK perhaps you did not read the whole post, First the Shell diesel spec oil is brand named Rotella. The ZDDP additive package has been removed from it as well.  

Back in the middle 80's through middle 90's while running circle track(dirt) I had some issues with Castrol while running a 50 to 75 lap race a quick half is what we called it Castrol seemed to want to turn to foam on us and this lead to a lost of oil pressure and of course there was the heat issue also. Rotella T also didn’t hold up to well. Most of our iols was bought trackside from the Vender trailers.

I was unaware of the changes being made to the oil nowdays as you all have stated I’ve been away from racing and Muscle car now for a few years doing the 9 to 5 thing thanks for the information on it that is definitely some food for thought

Steve thanks for the advice on the truck tank and wheel wash it did do the trick now my old M/T looks like new and the old Strip Dominator looks like new   I do have an assortment of Crane roller rocker believe it or not at one time in Southern Ohio they were a sponsor of Saturday night races and were given out as part of the prize winnings, us old country boys were easily bought off  

You mentioned that you wanted to find a Good Cam size for your Application.

Crane or Comp cams either one have a good Tech. support.. You can call them and tell them everything you are using. Like weight of the car, Eng. size, Compression, Transmission & converter, gear ratio Etc. and they will point you in the right Direction with which ever cam you decide to run wether it would be Hydraulic, Solid, or Roller...