Anyone have any info on enginekits.com 383 forged kits. no part number is listed sorry.

The one with Probe 22cc dished pistons and Probe rods 5140 crank.
I got some conserns about piston weight and rod wieght/legnth. The price is great but im sure about quality. $1217 balanced.

Option two. SRP pistons, Scat rods w/3/8 cap screws, 5140 import crank, Total Seal rings, Cleavite bearings. All from Competion Products.$1530 unbalaced.  

I can score a balancer and flywheel pretty easy. Balancing is around 2 bills here. Witch is the better deal?  

I personally don't trust anything balanced thru the mail.I got a stroker kit for 454-496,when it came in we had to grind the grink to flatten the journals and rebalance it.It was an Eagle kit from Jegs.Now,I'm not saying it was terrible,but it needed attention to be right.The parts have proven to be VEY reliable and would recommend Eagle highly.SRP has two different grades of pistons they sell,one is light and revs crazy but doesn't like much N2O.They others are heavier,slightly, but take an absolute beating,trust me.Buy what parts suit your taste and *** and pay a professional to do you balancing.Remember,higher alloy numbers on cranks and such dosn't mean stronger.Keep ductility in mind.  

Flatten the journals? The journals are supposed to be round...


Ductility? Usually when ductility of metals are spoken of it's usually compared between two dissimilar metals. Is there really a significant difference in two forged steels that the only difference may be less than a percent of carbon?

I believe that Probe and SRP are both great pistons. I've had good luck with both but have not used power adders on them. In the pistons I've seen both brands are conservative with their top ring placement in case nitrous is to be used, but I've only dealt with big block pistons. You will need to check out part numbers and the manufacturers specs if you're worried about this.

I don't worry much about piston weight too for a low rpm street or bracket machine. Ultra-light stuff is great and all for high rpm dedicated performance rides but I think the gains could be minute compared to the cost.

Rod length is off little to no significance. It will never affect the output of the engine unless you plan on changing the center-to-center length by an inch or more.

Just to mention, cap-screw rods will gain some needed clearance between the connecting rods and camshaft as well as add strength to the rod.  

How ductile a piece of metal refers to the amount of "flex" it can handle.Like cast iron,extremely tough material,but is not resistant to shock loads at all.Or for example,Pro gears vs. Street gears.Street gears are actually made out of harder metal than Pro gears.Street gears are made "hard" to provide a long wearing surface for thousands of highway miles,whereas Pro gears are softer.They handle shock loads because of the material they are made of is more ductile,or resiliant,but are too soft for everyday driving.They wear out much too quick.Trust me on this,I learned the hard wayThe flatness of the journals I was talking about was when you looked at the crank from the side the journals looked curved ) as opposed to flat /.Not noticable with the naked eye,but bound up terribly at the edge of the bearings.You're dead-on about capscrews.Rod length really only comes into play when an extremely long stroke is used with a fairly short rod.Don't want to push thru a cylinder wall,especially if bored thin.Any weight reduced from reciprocating mass is noticable,probably not in a 400 hp car,but swap a set of 30lb biasply/mag wheel setup for a set of 60lb heavy radial run flats on steelies and see if you don't feel the differenc when you take off the first time.  

Comp products it is. Thankx or the info on cranks thought. didnt realize there was such little differance between 5140 and 4130.