400 small block

building a 400 small block and placing it into a 88 chevy camaro. looking for direction on this build would like to stroke it out but i am finding little information on doing this. already have the block. any direction would help thanks  

400 small blocks are great torque motors.big bores,longer stroke makes for a great combination.if you want a nice street motor for cruizin and the odd stoplight thrash,id recommend keeping it pump gas freindly by using dished pistons,mild hydraulic roller cam and try out a set of the new bowtie vortec heads(large port)performer rpm intake 750 holley or demon carb etc.compression using these heads and a dished piston comes out between 9.8 and 10.2:1,perfect for pump gas.as far as cam duration,id recommend a comp cams hydraulic roller .520 .540 lift,236 242 duration at .050.hope this helps.good luck  

Use a 57 rod.  
IT IS THE FASTS CAR ON THE ROAD AS LONG AS IT STAYS IN THE GARAGE

The reason you aren't finding much information on "stroking" the 400 is that it isn't done often because of the problems that it creates in a production cast-iron block. Camshaft to connecting rod clearance is already short in a stock stroke 400, to the point where the stock 5.565" rods must be clearanced from the factory. Do you plan on trying to fit a 3.875" or 4.0" stroke crank? But I must say that either will be tough to fit.  
~Gibs

new to forum.just purchased a 69 camaro.the car has a 400 small block.it runs fine.no overheating.i pulled one of the valvecovers off and the inside of the cover is all milky,from water.no water in the oil pan.its not alot of water.i ran it with valve cover off,and saw no water weeping under head bolts,through pushrods,etc.the plugs are clean ,too.going to change the heads to a set of vortecs,once it warms up outside,and i drill steam holes in them.any ideas where the water is coming from? maybe intake gasket?  

If it's had water in the bottom I'd pull it apart for a thorough cleaning and inspection. Do the valve covers have breather or pcv holes that have been left open for years? Did the car sit outside hoodless or with the hood open for some time, like it got rained on repeatedly and the valve coever gaskets may have let standing water seep in? Did the previous owner blow a head gasket, then replace it and not clean the milkshake out of it?


Might start your own thread too, it'd get more direct response and I'll wager that somebody is going to respond to the original poster of this nearly six year old thread instead of you.  

If you suspect your engine may have an internal coolant leak, bad head gasket, cracked head, block etc.,. run the engine until hot, pull the dipstick and let the oil drip off onto the exhaust manifold or header. If there's any coolant in the oil it will sizzle and bubble.,. if it's pure oil it will just smoke and burn off.

 
When The Flag Drops,,,



The Bull Chit Stops,,,


P. Engineer, Engine Builder

Could the milky sludge be caused by not running long enough, engine doesn't  get hot enough to burn off condensation that has accumilated over the time it sits. Does it sit outside, do you drive less then 10 miles per trip, do you make lots of short trips? Motor should be allowed to heat up to 180 degrees or so.  

All my race motors developed milky deposits under the valve covers. Since the motors never ran for very long they could not burn off any condensation that developed.  
[[SUPPORT AMERICAN CARS, STOMP A RICE CAR TODAY.]]

i get the same condensation down here from time to time.   i think its a combination of not driving the car enough and the florida humidity?   i switched to cast aluminum valvecovers because the stamped steel ones were rusting on the inside.   all i could picture was the rust mixing with my oil!